Cropped Double-Breasted Three-Quarter Sleeve Jacket

Name: Cropped Double-Breasted Three-Quarter Sleeve Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2055
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2055

A cropped, lined women's jacket with a double-breasted front whose overlap curves round to the hem, a notched collar with rounded corners, darts front and back and two-piece sleeves ending below the elbow. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: medium-weight woven jacket fabrics with body, such as wool suiting, wool crepe, gabardine or tweed.

Tech. Description

Cropped Double-Breasted Three-Quarter Sleeve Jacket

When To Wear

Over dresses and high-waisted skirts or trousers, which the short length leaves visible.
For office wear in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts on the front and back.

Length: Cropped, ending at the high hip; the front edge is rounded at the hem.

Collar: Notched collar with rounded collar and lapel corners, the under collar set into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the facing; stay tape along the lapel roll line.

Closure: Double-breasted, with two outer buttons and one inner button holding the underlap.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, three-quarter length.

Back: Centre back seam and darts pressed towards the centre.

Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam: to the facing along the closure, to the front along the lapels.

Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A notched collar set between jacket and facing, a rounded front edge, two-piece sleeves and a bagged-out lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Medium-weight woven jacket fabrics with body, such as wool suiting, wool crepe, gabardine or tweed.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, collar, 1 cm stay tape for the roll line)
3 buttons (2 outer, 1 inner)

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interfacing).
Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
Stitch darts on the front. Press allowances upwards.
Stitch and press open the jacket shoulder seams.
Place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at curves, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facing.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at curves. Understitch the front edge seam allowance: in the fastening area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the jacket front. Place the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
Attach the lower collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing, clipping at the corner. Clip the collar attachment seam allowances, press open, and secure close to the seams.
Fold the attached front facing down at the side seam and stitch the side seams. Press the back allowance upwards.
Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press allowances open. Press up the hem allowance. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes. Press allowances.
Stitch the lining pieces, leaving a technological opening in the elbow seam of the left sleeve. Attach the lining to the back neck facing, front facing, and bottom of the back. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the technological opening. Close the opening.
Make buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on the inner button.