CUTTER'S MUST
Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and the front facing.
- From main fabric:
- Back — 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Bottom placket – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, turn the flap right side out, and press. Topstitch along the side and bottom edges 0.2 – 0.5 cm from the edge. Attach the flap to the front piece along the upper pocket marking line (the finished edge facing the neckline). Attach the large pocket bag to the front piece along the upper pocket marking line. Attach the small pocket bag to the front piece along the lower pocket marking line. End stitching at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the flap and pocket bags to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges together.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press seam allowances.
- Install grommets on the bottom placket. Place the bottom placket on the front and back pieces, right sides together, and stitch along the bottom edge. Fold the placket to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch shoulder edges of front facings and neckline facing. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch seams on lining fabric pieces.
- Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Attach the bottom edge of the lining to the upper edge of the placket. Topstitch on the right side, creating a casing. Secure the lining to the sleeve hem allowance. Turn right side out through the front opening. Secure the main garment and front facing along the neckline and front opening edges, then treat as one piece.
- Fold the front placket lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the bottom edge. Start and end stitching strictly along the marked placket attachment line. Trim seam allowances at the corner, turn right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front piece, press the seam allowance towards the placket. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side inward by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch along the outer edge of the placket 0.2 - 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the collar stand to the neckline, press the seam allowance towards the collar stand. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side inward by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, press the seam allowance towards the cuff. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side inward by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Thread the drawstring, install cord stoppers and eyelets.
- Make buttonholes, sew on buttons. Make buttonholes on the flaps, sew on buttons to the pockets.
