Stand Collar Flap Pocket Drawstring Jacket
Introducing a versatile women's sewing pattern for a relaxed-fit lined jacket featuring a classic stand collar, flap pockets, a button placket and an adjustable drawstring hem.
When To Wear
This stylish jacket is perfect for adding a chic, casual layer to your outfits, making it suitable for:
- Everyday Casual: Ideal for daily wear, providing comfort and effortless style.
- Transitional Weather: a perfect outerwear piece for spring, cool summer evenings, or early autumn.
- Outdoor & Leisure Activities: Offers a practical yet fashionable layer for light activities and casual outings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a comfortable, relaxed fit with a straight body that gathers at the hip for an adjustable silhouette.
Neckline & Collar: Features a clean, modern stand collar.
Closure: Front opening with a separate topstitched placket, fastened with four buttons.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves finished with cuffs.
Pockets: Two welt pockets with rectangular buttoned flaps on the front.
Back: Clean and unadorned, with gentle gathers created by the drawstring at the hem.
Hem: A lower band forming a drawstring casing, with the cord exiting through two eyelets at the front.
Lining: Fully lined body and sleeves.
Length: Sits at the hip for a contemporary and flattering proportion.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in constructing a stand collar, sewing welt pockets with flaps, creating a lined garment, and applying eyelets for a drawstring casing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose mid-weight woven fabrics with some body for a structured yet comfortable drape:
- Cotton twill
- Linen blends
- Lightweight canvas
- Gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 6 buttons (4 for the front placket, 2 for the pocket flaps)
- 2 eyelets (grommets)
- Drawstring cord
- Cord stoppers / cord ends
Cutter's Must
The lining Back, Front and Sleeve are cut from the main fabric pattern pieces, minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Center Front Placket – 2 pieces
- Lower Placket – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Center Front Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, turn the flap right side out, and press. Topstitch along the side and bottom edges 0.2–0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the flap to the Front along the upper pocket marking line (the finished edge facing the neckline). Stitch the Big Pocket Bag to the Front along the upper pocket marking line. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the Front along the lower pocket marking line. End the stitching at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts toward the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the flap and pocket bags to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends on the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch the pocket bag edges together.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press seam allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Press seam allowances.
- Install the eyelets on the Lower Placket. Place the Lower Placket on the Front and Back, right sides together, and stitch along the bottom edge. Fold the placket to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the shoulder edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces.
- Stitch the lining to the facings. Stitch the bottom edge of the lining to the upper edge of the Lower Placket. Topstitch from the right side to form the drawstring casing. Secure the lining to the sleeve hem allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the front edge. Baste the outer garment and the facings together along the neckline and front edges, then treat them as one piece.
- Fold the Center Front Placket lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the bottom edge, starting and ending exactly at the marked placket attachment line. Trim the seam allowances at the corner, turn right side out, and press. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the Front and press the seam allowance toward the placket. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side under by 1 cm and topstitch it over the attachment seam. Topstitch along the outer edge of the placket 0.2–0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn right side out, and press. Stitch the outer side of the collar to the neckline and press the seam allowance toward the collar. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side under by 1 cm and topstitch it over the attachment seam.
- Stitch the Cuff into a ring and press the seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve and press the seam allowance toward the cuff. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side under by 1 cm and topstitch it over the attachment seam.
- Thread the drawstring through the casing and finish it with cord stoppers and cord ends.
- Make buttonholes on the placket and sew on the buttons. Make buttonholes on the flaps and sew the buttons onto the Front beneath them.
