Tailored Peplum Jacket with Inverted Pleats

Name: Tailored Peplum Jacket with Inverted Pleats
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2034
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2034

A fitted, fully lined women's jacket with a collarless round neckline and an edge-to-edge front closed with a hook and eye. Princess seams shape the upper part; a separate peplum with inverted pleats is joined at the waist seam. Two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres that hold pleats: light wool suiting, gabardine, wool crepe.

Tech. Description

Tailored Peplum Jacket

When To Wear

For the office and business meetings, over a sheath dress, a pencil skirt or slim trousers.
In spring and autumn over a blouse or a fine knit top.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted to the waist, with the peplum standing out over the hips.

Length: Hip length, including the peplum.

Neckline: Collarless round neckline, faced with front facings and a back neckline facing.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with the cap eased into the armhole; shoulder pads.

Front: Edge-to-edge front with princess seams from the armhole; a hook and eye at the front edges.

Back: Upper back with shoulder darts, princess seams and a centre back seam; the lower back is cut in one piece on the fold.

Waist: Waist seam joining the upper jacket and the peplum.

Skirt: Peplum in three parts (back and two fronts) with inverted pleats; it is lined and pleated before it is set into the waist seam.

Lining: Full lining of the upper body and sleeves; the peplum is lined separately.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, two-piece sleeves with an eased cap, shoulder pads and a lined peplum with pleats sandwiched between the jacket and its lining at the waist seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres that hold pleats: light wool suiting, gabardine, wool crepe.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves)
Fusible stay tape for the armholes
Shoulder pads
1 hook and eye

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: All seams - 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.

From main fabric:
- Center Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Side Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Side Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Center Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Lower Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Side Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Back lining pieces are cut from the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing.
From fusible interfacing:
- Upper Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Lower Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Try to observe the grain line direction.

Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces and to the seam allowances of the lower edges of the garment and sleeves. Also, apply fusible stay tape along the armhole edges.
Stitch the shoulder darts on the Center Upper Back pieces, press the darts towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the upper jacket, press allowances open. Stitch the side seams of the lower jacket, press allowances open.
Stitch the side seams of the lower lining, press allowances open. Attach the Lower Center Front Facing pieces to the lining, press allowances towards the facing.
Place the lower part of the jacket and its lining right sides together and stitch along the front edges and the lower edge. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the piece right side out, smooth out, and press. Form and secure the inverted pleats.
Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Upper Center Front Facing pieces, press open. Place the facing on the right side of the jacket, right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edges and neckline. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the piece right side out, smooth out, and press.
Assemble the upper lining pieces in the same way as the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the elbow seam of the left sleeve. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Upper Center Front Facing pieces and the Back Neckline Facing.
Turn the facings with the lining to the wrong side and stitch them to the jacket at the waist seam, placing the lower part of the jacket between the main fabric and the lining. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Stitch the opening closed.
Sew a hook and eye to the front edges.