Quality Control: Inspecting a Finished Garment

Quality control starts with the right conditions: strong, even light and a systematic route around the garment so nothing is missed. Work the same order every time, outside then inside, top to bottom, so the inspection becomes reliable rather than a casual glance.

Examine the garment both flat and, where possible, on a form or body, since faults such as a twisting seam or a gaping neckline reveal themselves only when the garment takes its three-dimensional shape.

Seams are the first priority because they are structural. Look for straight, even stitching at a consistent length, secure starts and finishes, and no skipped or broken stitches. Run a hand along each seam to feel for puckering, and check that allowances are pressed correctly and finished against fraying.

Pay particular attention to stress points, the underarm, crotch, pocket corners and the base of zippers, where reinforcement such as backstitching or a bar tack should be present and intact.

Symmetry is one of the clearest signals of quality, and the eye notices its absence instantly. Check that paired elements match: collar points the same length, lapels mirror each other, pockets level, sleeves the same length, and darts ending at the same height on each side.

Confirm that stripes, plaids, prints and seams align where they should meet, across the centre front, at side seams, and where a sleeve joins the body. Misaligned patterns are a hallmark of rushed work.

A garment can be perfectly sewn and still look unfinished if it is poorly pressed. Check that seams are pressed flat and in the correct direction, that no allowances are imprinting ridges onto the right side, and that collars and lapels are shaped and rolled, not flattened.

Look for shine, scorching or water spotting from pressing, and confirm the garment is free of any pressing creases that should not be there. Crisp, clean pressing is what makes the construction read as professional.

Every closure must work smoothly and securely. Fasten and unfasten zippers, buttons, hooks and snaps to confirm they operate easily and hold; check that buttonholes are the right size, cleanly stitched and not fraying, and that buttons are firmly attached and positioned to align with their holes.

Inspect the small details: even topstitching, secure bar tacks, neat thread ends, and any hand-finishing lying flat and invisible. These details are where careful makers distinguish themselves.

Turn the garment inside out and judge the interior as critically as the outside, especially on unlined pieces where it is on show. Seam finishes should be clean and consistent, the lining should hang smooth with its jump hem and ease intact, and nothing should pull or twist.

Finally, remove every trace of construction: basting threads, tailor's tacks, chalk marks, stray threads and any markings. A finished garment carries no evidence of how it was made.

• Snip and remove all loose and basting threads.
• Brush out chalk and remove tailor's tacks.
• Confirm the lining hangs free and does not show below the hem.
• Give the garment a final press where handling has creased it.
• Check the garment on a form for fit, balance and hang.