Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: low-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers in contrasting or analogous colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: ribbing; separating zipper; 2 eyelets; decorative cord.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric 1:
- Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Central hood part – 1 piece
- Hood facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 2:
- Middle back part – 1 piece on fold
- Middle front part – 2 pieces
- Middle back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Middle front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 3:
- Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Front side panel – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- Lower back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From ribbing:
- Bottom band – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! TIP: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.
- Stitch the upper and middle back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overlock. Stitch the middle and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
- Attach pocket bags to the lower front pieces. Stitch the front relief seams, simultaneously finishing the pocket bag. Press seam allowances towards the center, overlock.
- Stitch the upper and middle front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overlock. Stitch the middle and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Attach the side parts of the hood to the central part, press seam allowances towards the central part and overlock. Punch eyelets according to markings. Overlock the inner edge of the hood facing. Fold the facing with the hood and stitch the outer edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side. Topstitch the hood facing to the main piece, forming a casing.
- Insert the hood into the neckline, press seam allowances towards the hood and overlock.
- Overlock the front edge seams. Overlock one long edge of the bottom band. Attach the unoverlocked edge of the band to the bottom edge of the jacket, slightly stretching the band. Insert the separating zipper. Fold the band around the zipper and topstitch into the zipper attachment seam. Turn the band inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper edge of the band.
- Attach the middle back sleeve part to the lower back sleeve part, press seam allowances upwards and overlock. Attach the middle front sleeve part to the lower front sleeve part, press seam allowances upwards and overlock. Attach the upper sleeve part to the middle front sleeve part, press seam allowances upwards and overlock. Stitch the upper sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the lower sleeve edge, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overlock.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Attach the cuff to the sleeve, easing the sleeve, overlock seam allowances.
- Thread the cord through the hood casing.
