Tailored Notched Collar Vest with Epaulets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: jacket fabrics, quilted with synthetic padding made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: 7 buttons; lining fabric.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Lining fabric pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facing and the back neckline facing.

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front – 2 pieces
  • Lower front – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Shoulder tab – 4 pieces
  • Belt – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Lower front – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Place the pocket bag on the lower front, right sides together, and stitch. Start and end the stitching strictly at the pocket mark. Similarly, stitch the pocket bag to the upper front. Stitch the front pieces together, press seams open. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
2. Stitch the placket to the front. Press seam allowance towards the placket and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
3. Stitch the back relief seam. Press seam allowance open.
4. Stitch the yoke to the back. Press seam allowance upwards.
5. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back.
6. Stitch shoulder seams of front facing and neckline facing, press seam allowances open.
7. Stitch the collar stand to the collar. Press seam allowance open. Fold collars right sides together, stitch ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marking line. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn collar right side out and press.
8. Place front facings on the right side of the vest and stitch the front edges and lapel. Trim seam allowances, clip at corners, turn right side out and press.
9. Stitch the upper collar into the main garment neckline. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the lower collar into the neckline of the front facing and back neckline facing. Press seam allowances open. Secure collar seam allowances together.
10. Fold shoulder tab pieces right sides together and stitch along outer edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the contour 0.2 cm from the edge. Place shoulder tab on the shoulder seam and secure to the main piece at the armhole edge.
11. Stitch seams on lining pieces.
12. Stitch lining to the back neckline facing and front facings. Stitch armholes in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole.
13. Fold belt pieces right sides together and stitch along the short side, lower side, and corner up to the mark. Clip seam allowance at the mark. Stitch the outer side of the belt to the vest. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer side.
14. On the left front, overcast buttonholes, sew buttons onto the right front, shoulder tabs, and belt.