Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: shirting fabric made of natural or blended fibers with elastane. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing, 10 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: for side and upper edges of sleeve placket — 0.5 cm, for lower edge – 1.5 cm, upper edge of pocket – 3 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 2 pieces
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Sleeve placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to cuffs, upper collar, inner collar stand, and placket.
- Stitch darts on back pieces. Press dart depths towards the center. Form and secure pleats on the back. Attach yoke to back. Overcast seam allowance and press upwards.
- Place upper collar with lower collar right sides together. Stitch ends and outer edge of collar. Trim seams. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along outer edge and ends of collar. Press lower edge of inner collar stand inwards by 1 cm and topstitch at 0.7 cm. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, aligning upper edge, insert finished collar between them, align notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching ends of collar stand. Turn finished collar right side out and press.
- Fold upper edge of pocket inwards by 1 cm, then by 2 cm, and topstitch. Press pocket allowances inwards. Place pocket on right side of front and topstitch according to markings.
- Place placket right side to wrong side of front and stitch edge of front opening. Fold placket to right side, turn under raw edge, and topstitch to front at 0.2 cm from fold. Topstitch at 0.2 cm from edge of front opening.
- Stitch and overcast shoulder seams. Press seam allowance towards the back.
- Attach upper collar stand with collar to neckline, press seam towards collar stand. Topstitch lower collar stand into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
- Sleeve placket treatment: Cut sleeve along marked line, clipping corner at upper part of cut. Fold section from cut to marked line, equal to 1.5 cm, inwards twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold placket lengthwise in half right sides together and stitch corner up to cross mark. Trim seam allowances close to stitching, clip allowance at end of stitching. Turn placket right side out, press, and topstitch along fold line from bottom to cross mark at 0.1 cm. Place placket with sleeve right sides together and stitch inner side along marked line. Clip sleeve at end of stitching across from cut to stitching line. Fold placket to right side, turn under raw edge, and stitch. Align placket with marked line on sleeve and topstitch upper corner along contour and along cross mark.
- Set sleeves into open armhole. Overcast seam, press.
- Stitch sleeve seams, simultaneously stitching side seam. Overcast seams and press towards the back. Form and secure pleats at bottom of sleeve according to markings.
- Fold cuff lengthwise in half and stitch short edges. Turn cuffs right side out and press. Attach inner side of cuff to sleeve. Fold lower edge of outer cuff inwards and topstitch into attachment seam.
- Overcast bottom edge of garment, press to wrong side, and topstitch.
- On cuffs and collar stand, overcast buttonholes and sew on buttons. On right front, overcast buttonholes, on left front - sew on buttons.
