Curved Yoke Full Zip Jacket
Introducing a men's sewing pattern for a dynamic full-zip jacket, distinguished by its prominent curved yokes and practical zippered pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for a range of casual settings and activities, making it perfect for:
- Casual Outings: a comfortable and stylish layer for everyday wear and informal gatherings.
- Active Lifestyle: Ideal for light outdoor activities, walks, or transitional weather conditions.
- Sporty & Modern Style: Pairs effortlessly with athletic wear or smart-casual ensembles for a contemporary look.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a comfortable, straight silhouette with a regular fit, designed for ease of movement.
Collar: Features a clean and functional stand collar.
Closure: a full-length separating zipper secures the front opening.
Yokes & Paneling: Distinguished by prominent curved yokes across the chest and upper back, complemented by multi-panel construction on the body and sleeves.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves are finished with comfortable elasticated cuffs.
Pockets: Practical zippered pockets are seamlessly integrated into the front style lines.
Hem: The banded hem is adjustable with an elastic cord and two stoppers for a customizable fit.
Details: Design lines, including the yokes and sleeve panels, offer opportunities for contrasting fabric inserts or decorative piping.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with curved seams, zipper insertions, and working with multiple pattern pieces and optional piping.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose outerwear fabrics with good drape and durability for the main fabric, and consider insulating options for cooler climates:
- Raincoat fabrics (e.g., polyester-based outerwear fabrics)
- Knitted mesh fabric (for lining)
- Fleece or Polartec (for an insulated version)
Additional Supplies
- Thin synthetic insulation (Syntepon)
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 separating zipper (length depends on jacket front length including collar stand)
- 2 non-separating zippers (length depends on pocket opening length)
- Cord for piping
- Elastic tape, 4.5cm wide (for cuffs)
- Elastic cord (for jacket hem)
- 2 cord stoppers
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: for the hem of the main fabric pieces – 4.5cm, for the lining hem – 0cm (lining reaches the hem fold), other seams 1cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces, as well as the color scheme).
- Main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Back insert – 1 piece
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Central sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve - 4 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping. Attention! After making the piping, a 1cm seam allowance must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- Lining:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Synthenit: Duplicate the upper collar piece cut from the main fabric with Synthenit, stitching along the contour.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Zipper pockets in seams. Fuse interfacing to the pocket placement area on the front. Attach the zipper together with the small pocket bag to the front. Attach the other edge of the zipper together with the large pocket bag to the side front. Clip allowances at the corners. Attach the side front to the front, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Make bar tacks at the pocket opening and topstitch. The edges of the pocket bags should enter the zipper insertion seam and reach the hemline.
- Making piping. Stitch the strips together, press the seams open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert the cord inside, and stitch along the contour of the cord.
- Assembling the outer shell. Attach the side pieces to the back. Topstitch the attachment seams. Attach the inserts to the back and fronts, inserting the piping. Topstitch. Attach the lower sleeve parts to the armholes. Stitch the shoulder seams. Topstitch the shoulder seam on the back. Stitch the central sleeve parts and yokes. Stitch the lower sleeve parts along the center seam. Attach the yoke to the back and front, connecting the central and lower sleeve parts and inserting the piping. Topstitch the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch the sleeve attachment seams at the armholes. Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams. Insert the upper collar into the neckline.
- Lining. Topstitch the front facing to the front lining, previously pressing the inner edge of the facing. Stitch the jacket lining. Insert the lower collar into the lining neckline.
- Cuffs. Stitch the cuffs and elastic tape into a loop separately. Insert the elastic tape into the cuff, stretch it to the length of the cuff, and make 2 topstitches. For industrial processing, it is recommended to first secure the elastic tape in the cuff, and then stitch it into a loop with a "flat-felled" seam. Attach the cuffs to the sleeves, catching the edge of the elastic in the seam.
- Zipper closure. Place one half of the separating zipper with the garment edge right sides together (teeth facing away from the edge). Face the edges of the fronts and collar with the lining, simultaneously inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
- Attach the lining to the cuffs.
- Overlock buttonholes for the cord on the hem allowance. Press the hem allowance, first turning up 1cm, then 3.5cm. Topstitch the hem allowance.
- Topstitch the fronts and collar of the jacket.
- Press the finished jacket.
- Insert the cord into the jacket hem from the wrong side.
