Paneled Full Zip Sports Jacket
Introducing a men's sewing pattern for a stylish sports jacket, meticulously designed with intricate paneling, contrast piping details, and a functional full-zip front.
When To Wear
Perfect for active lifestyles or casual outings, this jacket is an excellent choice for:
- Everyday & Casual Wear: a versatile layering piece for daily activities and relaxed settings.
- Transitional Seasons: Provides lightweight warmth and style, ideal for spring or autumn weather.
- Sports & Leisure Activities: Suitable for light outdoor pursuits, walks, or active leisurewear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a relaxed, slightly blouson fit, cinched at the waist and cuffs for a classic bomber jacket profile.
Collar: a neat stand collar provides a clean finish around the neckline.
Closure: Features a full-length separable zipper at the front for easy wear and adjustable ventilation.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves ending in elasticated cuffs, ensuring a comfortable and secure fit.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets are positioned at the front hips, each secured with a non-separable zipper.
Panels & Piping: Intricate horizontal and vertical panel lines are present on the front, back, and sleeves, accented with contrast piping for a dynamic visual effect.
Hem: An elasticated waistband cinches the hem, contributing to the blouson silhouette and ensuring a snug fit.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in working with zippers, creating welt pockets, handling piping, and applying elasticated finishes.
Fabric Recommendations
For the main fabric, choose woven materials with some body and drape, and for the lining, consider adding warmth or breathability:
- Main fabric: Raincoat fabrics (polyester recommended)
- Lining: Mesh knit fabric, fleece, or Polartec (for an insulated option)
Additional Supplies
- Thin synthetic wadding (Sintepon)
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 separable zipper (length depends on garment front length, including collar height)
- 2 non-separable zippers (length depends on pocket opening length)
- Cord for piping
- Elastic tape 5.5cm wide for waistband
- Elastic tape 4.5cm wide for cuffs
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front - 2 pieces
- Back - 1 piece
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Side – 4 pieces
- Central sleeve - 2 pieces
- Side sleeve - 4 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Facing - 2 pieces
- Belt - 1 piece
- Belt placket - 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Welt - 2 pieces
Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping. Attention! After making the piping, a 1 cm seam allowance must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- Lining:
- Front - 2 pieces
- Back - 1 piece
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Zipper pockets. Duplicate the welt with fusible interfacing, fold in half lengthwise, and press. Duplicate the pocket placement area with fusible interfacing. Mark a line on the welt defining the finished welt width. Place the welt on the right side of the front, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the welt. The outer side of the welt should align with the right side of the front. Stitch the welt. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the welt to the wrong side. Press open the seam allowances. Place the zipper under the pocket opening. From the right side of the front, stitch the zipper 0.1cm from the pocket opening. Stitch the small pocket bag to the lower zipper tape and turn down. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper zipper tape. Stitch the pocket bag edges. The pocket bag edges should be included in the zipper insertion seam and the belt attachment seam.
- Making piping. Stitch the strips together, press the seams open. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert a cord inside, and stitch along the contour of the cord.
- Assembly of the upper garment. Stitch the side panels to the back and front panels. Topstitch the attachment seams. Stitch the side sleeve parts to the side parts of the back and front along the armhole. Stitch the shoulder edges. Topstitch the shoulder seam along the back. Stitch the central sleeve parts and yoke. Stitch the yoke to the back and front, connecting the central and side sleeve parts and inserting the piping. Topstitch the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch the sleeve attachment seams along the armhole. Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams. Insert the upper collar into the neckline. Topstitch the piping along the outer edge of the upper collar.
- Lining. Topstitch the facing to the front lining, after pressing the inner edge of the facing. Stitch the jacket lining, leaving a technological opening unstitched in the seam of one of the sleeves for turning out. Insert the lower collar into the lining neckline.
- Cuffs. Stitch the cuffs and elastic tape into a ring separately. Insert the elastic tape into the cuff, stretch to the cuff length, and make 2 decorative stitches. For industrial processing, it is recommended to first secure the elastic tape in the cuff, and then stitch into a ring with a 'flat-felled' seam. Stitch the cuffs to the sleeves, catching the edge of the elastic in the seam.
- Belt. Secure the elastic tape in the belt, making 2 decorative stitches. Stitch the belt plackets to the belt. Stitch the belt to the jacket. Secure the belt plackets from the wrong side to the front lining.
- Zipper closure. Fold one half of the zipper with the garment edge right sides together (teeth pointing away from the edge). Finish the edges of the garment and collar with the lining, simultaneously inserting the zipper. Turn the garment to the right side.
- Stitch the lining to the cuffs and belt of the jacket. Close the technological opening.
- Topstitch the edges and collar of the jacket.
- Press the finished jacket.
