Paneled Full Zip Sports Jacket
A men's (unisex) lined sports jacket with a separating zip front and stand collar, cut in panels: a yoke line with corded piping runs across the chest, back and sleeves, and curved side panels run from the yoke to the waistband. Zipped welt pockets, elasticated cuffs and waistband.
When To Wear
- For walks, training and outdoor leisure in spring and autumn.
- With a fleece lining as a warmer version for cool weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Roomy, blousing over the elasticated waistband and cuffs.
Length: Hip length, ending at the waistband.
Collar: Stand collar; the upper collar has corded piping along its upper edge, and the collar is backed with thin wadding.
Sleeves: Each sleeve is cut in three pieces: a centre sleeve panel joined to the yokes and two side sleeve panels joined to the side panels of the body. Elastic cuffs.
Closure: Separating zip from hem to the top of the collar, set between the jacket and the lined facings.
Pockets: Slanted welt pockets on the fronts, each closed with a zip; the pocket bags are caught in the waistband seam.
Back: Back yoke and back with curved side panels; the yoke seam continues the piping line from the front and sleeves.
Waist: Waistband with 5.5 cm elastic held by two rows of stitching, with non-elastic plackets at the front ends backed with thin wadding.
Finishing: Corded piping in the yoke seam; side panel, shoulder, yoke and armhole seams topstitched; front edges and collar topstitched.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached to the cuffs and waistband; turned through an opening in a sleeve lining seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Zipped welt pockets, self-made corded piping set into a seam that crosses body and sleeves, a separating zip between the jacket and the lining, and elasticated cuffs and waistband.
Fabric Recommendations
Polyester raincoat fabrics. For the lining: mesh knit, or fleece or Polartec for a warmer jacket.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Thin polyester wadding (collar and waistband plackets)
- Fusible interfacing (welts and pocket area)
- 1 separating zip, the length of the front including the collar
- 2 closed-end zips for the pockets
- Cord for the piping
- Elastic tape, 5.5 cm wide, for the waistband
- Elastic tape, 4.5 cm wide, for the cuffs
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Side Part – 4 pieces
- Center Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Side Sleeve – 4 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Waistband Placket – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
Cut bias strips 3.5cm wide from the main fabric for making piping. The length of the strips depends on the length of the piping. Attention! After making the piping, a 1 cm seam allowance must remain. Otherwise, adjust the width of the cut strips yourself.
- Lining:
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Back Lining – 1 piece
- Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- Thin wadding (Sintepon): back the Collar (1 piece) and the Waistband Placket pieces cut from the main fabric with wadding, stitching them together along the edges.
- Fusible interfacing: Off-Set Welt and the pocket placement area on the fronts.
Sewing Instructions
- Zipper pockets. Fuse the Off-Set Welt with fusible interfacing, fold it in half lengthwise and press. Fuse the pocket placement area on the front with fusible interfacing. Mark a line on the welt defining the finished welt width. Place the welt on the right side of the front, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the welt; the outer side of the welt should face the right side of the front. Stitch the welt. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the welt to the wrong side. Press the seam allowances open. Place the zipper under the pocket opening. From the right side of the front, stitch the zipper 0.1cm from the pocket opening. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the lower zipper tape and turn it down. Stitch the Bigger Pocket Bag to the upper zipper tape. Stitch the pocket bags together along the edges. The pocket bag edges should be caught in the zipper seam and in the waistband seam.
- Making piping. Stitch the bias strips together and press the seams. Fold the resulting strip in half, insert the cord inside, and stitch close along the cord.
- Jacket assembly. Stitch the Side Parts to the Back and Fronts. Topstitch the seams. Stitch the Side Sleeve pieces to the side parts of the back and front along the armhole. Stitch the shoulder seams. Topstitch the shoulder seam on the back side. Stitch the Center Sleeve pieces to the yokes. Stitch the yokes to the back and fronts, joining the center and side sleeve pieces at the same time and inserting the piping. Topstitch the yoke seam. Topstitch the armhole seams of the sleeves. Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch the upper collar into the neckline. Stitch the piping along the outer (upper) edge of the upper collar.
- Lining. Press under the inner edge of the Center Front Facing and topstitch the facing onto the Front Lining. Stitch the jacket lining together, leaving an opening for turning in the seam of one of the sleeves. Stitch the under collar into the lining neckline.
- Cuffs. Stitch the cuffs and the elastic tape into rings separately. Insert the elastic into the cuff, stretch it to the cuff length and sew 2 rows of topstitching. For industrial sewing it is recommended to first secure the elastic in the cuff and then join the cuff into a ring with a lapped seam. Stitch the cuffs to the sleeves, catching the edge of the elastic in the seam.
- Waistband. Secure the elastic in the Waistband with 2 rows of topstitching. Stitch the Waistband Plackets to the waistband. Stitch the waistband to the jacket. Tack the waistband plackets on the inside to the front lining.
- Zipper closure. Place each half of the separating zipper on the front edge of the jacket, right sides together (teeth pointing away from the edge). Stitch the lining to the front edges and collar edges, catching the zipper in the seam at the same time. Turn the jacket right side out.
- Stitch the lining to the cuffs and waistband of the jacket. Close the turning opening.
- Topstitch the front edges and collar of the jacket.
- Press the finished jacket.
