Men’s Classic Single-Breasted Raincoat with Notched Collar and Sleeve Straps
Introducing a men’s sewing pattern for a straight-cut rain coat featuring a classic notched collar, structured panel construction, and adjustable sleeve tabs — Practical Outerwear with Refined Tailoring.
When To Wear
This coat is designed for functionality and clean structure, making it suitable for:
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Everyday City Wear: a reliable outer layer for daily commuting and urban lifestyles.
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Smart Casual Looks: Works well over business or casual outfits for a polished appearance.
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Seasonal Outerwear: Ideal for transitional weather when protection and structure are equally important.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, knee-length coat with clean vertical lines and a balanced, structured fit.
Collar: Classic notched collar with a separate stand, providing a traditional coat neckline.
Closure: Single-breasted front closure with four buttons.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves finished with adjustable sleeve tabs for a functional, tailored detail.
Pockets: Welt pockets positioned at the waist for practicality and visual balance.
Back: Back yoke combined with a two-piece lower back and a center vent for ease of movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate to Advanced. Accurate construction is required for collar assembly, sleeve tabs, pocket execution, and alignment of multiple panels.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose fabrics suitable for coats and outerwear that provide durability and structure:
- Coat and raincoat fabrics
- Gabardine, twill, or similar tightly woven materials
- Other medium-weight outerwear textiles with weather resistance
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- 4 buttons for front closure
- 2 buttons for Sleeve Tabs
Cutter’s Must
From Main Fabric:
- Welt (marked on pattern as “Off-Set Welt”) – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces on fold
- Sleeve Back Tab – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Front Tab – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Belt Loops – 1 piece
From Lining Fabric:
Fo drafting lining patterns, use the following main patterns with the following modifications:
- Lower Back lining – use Lower Back pattern excluding vent extension, cut 2.
- Back Yoke lining – use Back Yoke pattern, cut 2.
- Side Front lining – use Side Front pattern, cut 2.
- Center Front lining – use Center Front pattern excluding the width of Center Front Facing, cut 2.
- Front Yoke lining – use Front Yoke pattern excluding the width of Center Front Facing, cut 2.
- Pocket Bag – cut 4.
- Upper Sleeve – cut 2.
- Lower Sleeve – cut 2.
From Fusible Interfacing:
All interfacing pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces.
- Center Front – cut 2.
- Back Vent Extension – cut 2.
- Half-width of Welt – cut 2.
- Front Yoke – cut 2.
- Center Front Facing – cut 2.
- Sleeve Tabs – cut 4.
- Collar – cut 2.
- Stand Collar – cut 2.
Important Information
Before cutting your fabric:
- Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
- Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
- For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.
Assembly Instructions
Preparation
- Apply fusible interfacing to Center Fronts, back vent extensions, half-width of Welts, Front Yokes, Center Front Facings, Sleeve Tabs, Collars, Stand Collars.
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Transfer all markings to fabric: welt position, buttonholes, collar notches
- Staystitch neckline and armholes to prevent stretching.
Welt Pocket in Panel Seam
- Stitch the short ends of the Welt, turn right side out, and press the folds. Topstitch along the edges of the Welt.
- Align the raw edges of the Welt with the seam allowance of the front panel seam of the Center Front piece, placing the Welt on the right side of the Center Front and matching the top edge of the Welt to the notch.
- Place the upper Pocket Bag on top of the Welt and baste all layers together.
- Place the lower Pocket Bag on the right side of the Side Front piece.
- Stitch the Welt and both pocket bags in place.
- Stitch the front panel seams, enclosing the pocket construction.
- Turn the pocket bags to the inside, align them, and stitch together.
- Secure the short ends of the Welt to the front panel seam, stitching through the welt ends into the seam at the line of topstitching.
Front Yoke Assembly
Stitch the lower front sections to the yokes. Press the seam allowances toward the yokes and topstitch.
Center Back Seam, Vent & Back Yoke
- Stitch the center back seam up to the vent marking. Press seam allowances to the left side and topstitch.
- Fold the left back vent allowance to the right side of the garment, stitch along the hem fold line, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch along the left vent fold.
- Fold the hem allowance of the right back section to the right side, stitch along the edge of the vent allowance, turn right side out, and press.
- Lay the vent to the left side and secure it at the top with a diagonal reinforcement stitch.
- Attach the Back Yoke to the Back, press seam allowances toward the Yoke, and topstitch.
- Stitch the side seams and shoulder seams.
Collar Assembly
- Stitch the collar stands to the lower collar and the upper collar respectively.
- Press the seam allowances open.
- Topstitch on both sides of each seam.
- Set the lower collar with attached stand into the neckline of the main garment, matching notches.
Sleeve Tabs, Sleeve Assembly & Hem Finish
- Fold the sleeve tab pieces lengthwise along the center, right sides together, and stitch along the long edge and one short edge.
- Turn the tabs right side out, baste, and press.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seams.
- Press seam allowances toward the front sleeve and topstitch.
- Stitch the lower sleeve seam, inserting the sleeve tabs at the marked positions.
- Fold the belt loop strip lengthwise, right sides together, stitch along the long edges, turn right side out, press, and topstitch.
- Cut the strip into eight equal loop pieces.
- Turn under the raw ends of each loop and attach the loops to the sleeves at the marked positions.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching all notches.
- Sew in shoulder pads.
- Press the sleeve hem allowance to the inside and hand-hem with invisible stitches
Lining, Center Front Facings & Upper Collar Assembly
Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Front lining pieces.
Join all lining pieces together to complete the lining assembly.
Set the upper collar into the neckline of the lining.
Place the outer garment and the lining right sides together.
Stitch in one continuous seam around the following areas:
– the lower edges of the Center Front Facings for 3 cm along the hem fold line,
– the front edges,
– and the collar.
Turn the garment right side out, press carefully, and topstitch along the collar and front edges.
Secure Collar Seam Allowances
From the wrong side, hand-stitch the seam allowances of the upper and lower collars together.
Hem & Lining Finishing
- Press the garment hem allowance to the inside and stitch along the edge.
- Cut the lining open directly above the vent, tapering the cut diagonally toward the base of the vent.
- Turn the lining vent allowances under and hand-stitch them to the vent allowances of the outer garment.
- Turn under the lining sleeve hem and hand-stitch it to the sleeve hem allowance of the outer garment.
Buttonholes & Buttons
- Work buttonholes on the sleeve tabs, the left Front, and the top buttonhole on the lapel as marked.
- Sew on the buttons.
