Men’s Zip-Front Jacket with Shirt-Style Collar and Elasticated Hem
Introducing a men’s sewing pattern for a structured zip-front jacket with a classic shirt-style collar, articulated panel construction, and elasticated hem — Modern Utility with Clean Contemporary Lines.
When To Wear
This jacket combines structure and comfort, making it an ideal choice for:
- Everyday City Wear: a versatile outer layer suitable for daily use and casual outings.
- Smart Casual Styling: Pairs well with trousers or denim for a modern, polished look.
- Seasonal Transitions: Designed for mid-weight materials that provide protection without bulk.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight-cut, hip-length jacket with a balanced fit and softly bloused volume created by the elasticated hem.
Collar: Classic shirt-style collar with upper and lower collar construction for a clean neckline and defined shape.
Closure: Central front closure with a long separating zipper.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves finished with cuffs for a structured yet comfortable fit.
Pockets: Side seam pockets with zipper closures for secure and discreet storage.
Back: Back yoke combined with a two-piece back for improved shaping and ease of movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Careful construction is required for collar assembly, zipper insertion, sleeve setting, and accurate alignment of multiple panels.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose materials that provide structure while remaining comfortable:
- Faux leather or coated fabrics
- Faux fur for collar or lining accents
- Drapery wool or drapery-style outerwear fabrics
- Other jacket fabrics with moderate body
Additional Supplies
- Main fabric
- Lining fabric – amount varies with size
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 long separating zipper for front closure
- 2 short zippers for pocket openings
- 2 buttons
Cutter’s Must
From Main Fabric:
- Lower Collar – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
From Lining Fabric:
For drafting lining patterns use the following patterns:
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – use main fabric pattern, cut 2
- Lower Sleeve – use main fabric pattern, cut 2
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
From Fusible Interfacing:
All interfacing pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces.
- Center Front Facing - cut 2
- Upper Collar - cut 1
- Cuff - cut 2
Important Information
Before cutting your fabric:
- Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
- Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
- For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.
Assembly Instructions
Preparation
- Apply fusible interfacing to Center Front Facings, Upper Collar and Cuffs.
- Transfer all markings to fabric: dart placement, welt position, buttonholes, collar notches, and waist strap points.
- Staystitch neckline and armholes to prevent stretching.
Back & Front Assembly (Yokes, Panels, and Pockets)
Back
- Stitch the Back Yoke pieces to the Lower Back pieces.
- Topstitch the seams.
- Attach the assembled Yoke to the Back and topstitch the seam.
Front & Pockets
- Stitch the Front shaping seams (Middle Front to Side Front), leaving the pocket opening unsewn.
- Topstitch the seam allowances.
- Position the zipper behind the pocket opening and stitch it in place.
- From the wrong side, place the pocket bags right sides to the right sides of the pocket opening seam allowances and stitch exactly along the marked side seam lines.
- Press pocket bags toward the center and stitch them together.
Front Yoke & Shoulders
- Attach the Front Yoke to the Front; topstitch the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
Collar, Facings & Zipper Assembly
- Stitch the Lower Collar pieces together.
- Topstitch the seams.
- Set the Lower Collar into the garment neckline.
- Stitch the Upper Collar to the Center Front Facings.
- Baste the zipper to the front edges, placing it between the fronts and facings with right sides together.
- Place the Upper Collar with Facings onto the garment, right sides together, and stitch along the front edges and around the collar.
- Turn the garment right side out and press carefully.
- Secure the seam allowances of the Upper and Lower Collars together by hand along the inner edge.
Elastic Casing at Back and Side Front
- Press the integrated facings of the Back and Side Front pieces to the wrong side.
- Topstitch along the marked lines to form casings.
- Insert lengths of elastic tape into the casings.
- Secure the ends of the elastic.
Sleeves and Cuffs
- Stitch the upper sleeve and elbow sleeve seams up to the vent mark; press seam allowances open.
- Topstitch the elbow seam as indicated.
Lower Sleeve Pleats
- Fold the lower sleeve pleats along the marked lines.
- Press lightly and secure the pleats with basting stitches within the seam allowance.
- Fold the cuff pieces lengthwise, right sides together; stitch the short ends, turn right side out, and press.
- Place the cuffs onto the sleeve hems right sides together and stitch.
- Turn the cuffs out, press the seam allowance inward, and topstitch in the seam, continuing the topstitching around the entire cuff.
- Set sleeves into the armholes, matching notches.
Lining Assembly & Attachment
- Assemble the lining pieces in the same sequence as the outer garment, leaving an opening of approximately 20 cm in the elbow seam of one sleeve for turning.
- Insert the lining into the jacket right sides together, aligning the center back lines and shoulder seams.
- Stitch the lining to the outer garment along the front facings and neckline.
- Attach the lining to the jacket hem allowance and sleeve hem allowances.
- Turn the garment right side out through the opening left in the sleeve.
- Close the sleeve opening with a neat machine stitch.
Finishing
- Work buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on the buttons.
- Give a final press — ensuring sharp collar edges, flat facings, and crisp hem.
