Men’s Zip-Front Jacket with Shirt Collar – One Pattern, Three Fabrics
A men’s sewing pattern for a hip-length zip-front jacket with a classic shirt collar, front and back yokes, zip pockets set into the front panel seams and an elasticated hem at the sides. One pattern, three different jackets: sew it in faux leather for a classic leather jacket, in short-pile faux fur for a soft, warm winter jacket, or in wool coating for a smart, tailored look.
One Pattern, Three Jackets
- Faux leather: the timeless leather jacket. The yokes, panel seams and topstitching stand out clearly, and the zip pockets give it a sharp, modern finish.
- Faux fur: a cosy winter jacket in short-pile faux fur (faux mink or teddy, 5–10 mm pile). The short pile keeps every seam and pocket readable.
- Wool coating: a smart, tailored version in melton or drap coating, perfect over a knit or a shirt for town and office.
When To Wear
- Everyday City Wear: a versatile outer layer for daily use and casual outings.
- Smart Casual Styling: pairs well with trousers or denim for a modern, polished look.
- All Seasons: leather for spring and autumn, wool coating and faux fur for the cold months.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, relaxed, hip-length jacket. Elastic in the hem of the side front panels and the back gives a softly bloused shape, while the middle front panels keep a flat, clean hem.
Collar: Classic shirt collar with upper and lower collar for a clean neckline and defined shape.
Closure: Long separating zip at the centre front.
Yokes: Topstitched front and back yokes.
Pockets: Zip pockets set into the seams between the middle and side front panels.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with pleats at the hem and button cuffs.
Back: Back yoke with a two-piece back for shaping and ease of movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Careful construction is required for collar assembly, zip insertion, sleeve setting and accurate alignment of multiple panels.
Fabric Recommendations
The pattern is designed for three types of fabric:
- Faux leather or coated fabrics: use a leather needle, a Teflon or roller foot and clips instead of pins.
- Short-pile faux fur (5–10 mm): cut single layer with the pile running down; trim the pile from the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Avoid long-pile fur, which hides the seams and pockets.
- Wool coating (melton, drap): press seams with a pressing cloth; topstitching shows beautifully on the felted surface.
Additional Supplies
- Main fabric
- Lining fabric – amount varies with size
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 long separating zipper for front closure
- 2 short zippers for pocket openings
- 2 buttons
Cutter’s Must
From Main Fabric:
- Lower Collar – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
From Lining Fabric:
For drafting lining patterns use the following patterns:
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – use main fabric pattern, cut 2
- Lower Sleeve – use main fabric pattern, cut 2
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
From Fusible Interfacing:
All interfacing pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces.
- Center Front Facing - cut 2
- Upper Collar - cut 1
- Cuff - cut 2
Important Information
Before cutting your fabric:
- Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
- Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
- For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.
Assembly Instructions
Preparation
- Apply fusible interfacing to Center Front Facings, Upper Collar and Cuffs.
- Transfer all markings to fabric: notches, pocket openings, casing fold lines, sleeve pleats and buttonholes.
- Staystitch neckline and armholes to prevent stretching.
Back & Front Assembly (Yokes, Panels, and Pockets)
Back
- Stitch the Back Yoke pieces to the Lower Back pieces.
- Topstitch the seams.
- Attach the assembled Yoke to the Back and topstitch the seam.
Front & Pockets
- Stitch the Front shaping seams (Middle Front to Side Front), leaving the pocket opening unsewn.
- Topstitch the seam allowances.
- Position the zipper behind the pocket opening and stitch it in place.
- From the wrong side, place the pocket bags right sides to the right sides of the pocket opening seam allowances and stitch exactly along the marked side seam lines.
- Press pocket bags toward the center and stitch them together.
Front Yoke & Shoulders
- Attach the Front Yoke to the Front; topstitch the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
Collar, Facings & Zipper Assembly
- Stitch the Lower Collar pieces together.
- Topstitch the seams.
- Set the Lower Collar into the garment neckline.
- Stitch the Upper Collar to the Center Front Facings.
- Baste the zipper to the front edges, placing it between the fronts and facings with right sides together.
- Place the Upper Collar with Facings onto the garment, right sides together, and stitch along the front edges and around the collar.
- Turn the garment right side out and press carefully.
- Secure the seam allowances of the Upper and Lower Collars together by hand along the inner edge.
Elastic Casing at Back and Side Front
- Press the integrated facings of the Back and Side Front pieces to the wrong side.
- Topstitch along the marked lines to form casings.
- Insert lengths of elastic tape into the casings.
- Secure the ends of the elastic.
Sleeves and Cuffs
- Stitch the upper sleeve and elbow sleeve seams up to the vent mark; press seam allowances open.
- Topstitch the elbow seam as indicated.
Lower Sleeve Pleats
- Fold the lower sleeve pleats along the marked lines.
- Press lightly and secure the pleats with basting stitches within the seam allowance.
- Fold the cuff pieces lengthwise, right sides together; stitch the short ends, turn right side out, and press.
- Place the cuffs onto the sleeve hems right sides together and stitch.
- Turn the cuffs out, press the seam allowance inward, and topstitch in the seam, continuing the topstitching around the entire cuff.
- Set sleeves into the armholes, matching notches.
Lining Assembly & Attachment
- Assemble the lining pieces in the same sequence as the outer garment, leaving an opening of approximately 20 cm in the elbow seam of one sleeve for turning.
- Insert the lining into the jacket right sides together, aligning the center back lines and shoulder seams.
- Stitch the lining to the outer garment along the front facings and neckline.
- Attach the lining to the jacket hem allowance and sleeve hem allowances.
- Turn the garment right side out through the opening left in the sleeve.
- Close the sleeve opening with a neat machine stitch.
Finishing
- Work buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on the buttons.
- Give a final press — ensuring sharp collar edges, flat facings, and crisp hem.
