Men's Single-Breasted Mac Coat with Sleeve Tabs

Men’s Classic Single-Breasted Raincoat with Notched Collar and Sleeve Straps

A men's single-breasted raincoat with a notched collar on a stand, front and back yokes, vertical panel seams with welt pockets set into them, and buttoned tabs at the sleeve hems. Fully lined, with topstitched seams.

When To Wear

• In rainy weather in spring and autumn, over a suit or jacket for work.
• Over a sweater with trousers or jeans for everyday wear.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, with padded shoulders.

Length: Just above the knee.

Collar: Notched collar. Upper and under collar each have a separate stand; the stand seams are topstitched on both sides.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves. A front tab and a back tab are caught in the underarm seam near the hem and buttoned together; they pass through loops sewn to the sleeve.

Front: Single-breasted, four buttons, buttonholes on the left front and one at the top of the right lapel. Each front has a yoke and is divided by a vertical seam into a centre front and a side front.

Pockets: Vertical welt pockets set into the front panel seams, welts topstitched 1 cm from the edge.

Back: Back yoke in one piece; lower back with a centre back seam and a vent lapped to the left.

Finishing: Panel, yoke, centre back and upper sleeve seams topstitched; collar and front edges topstitched; fusible interfacing on the centre fronts, front yokes, facings, collar, stands, welts, sleeve tabs and vent; hem machine-stitched, sleeve hems sewn by hand.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, cut open above the vent and hand-sewn to the vent allowances.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate to Advanced. Welt pockets in a panel seam, a two-part collar with stands, a back vent, sleeve tabs set into the seam and a lining bagged to the coat along the collar and fronts.

Fabric Recommendations

Raincoat fabric.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing
• Shoulder pads
• 4 buttons for the front
• 2 buttons for the sleeve tabs

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Welt (marked on pattern as “Off-Set Welt”) – 2 pieces
2. Back Yoke – 1 piece
3. Lower Back – 2 pieces
4. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
5. Side Front – 2 pieces
6. Center Front – 2 pieces
7. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
8. Collar – 2 pieces
9. Stand Collar – 2 pieces on fold
10. Sleeve Back Tab – 2 pieces
11. Sleeve Front Tab – 2 pieces
12. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Belt Loops – 1 piece

From Lining Fabric:

For drafting lining patterns, use the following main patterns with the following modifications:

1. Lower Back lining – use Lower Back pattern excluding vent extension, cut 2.
2. Back Yoke lining – use Back Yoke pattern, cut 2.
3. Side Front lining – use Side Front pattern, cut 2.
4. Center Front lining – use Center Front pattern excluding the width of Center Front Facing, cut 2.
5. Front Yoke lining – use Front Yoke pattern excluding the width of Center Front Facing, cut 2.
6. Pocket Bag – cut 4.
7. Upper Sleeve – cut 2.
8. Lower Sleeve – cut 2.

From Fusible Interfacing:

All interfacing pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces.

1. Center Front – cut 2.
2. Back Vent Extension – cut 2.
3. Half-width of Welt – cut 2.
4. Front Yoke – cut 2.
5. Center Front Facing – cut 2.
6. Sleeve Tabs – cut 4.
7. Collar – cut 2.
8. Stand Collar – cut 2.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

Preparation

• Apply fusible interfacing to Center Fronts, back vent extensions, half-width of Welts, Front Yokes, Center Front Facings, Sleeve Tabs, Collars, Stand Collars.
• Transfer all markings to fabric: welt position, buttonholes, collar notches
• Staystitch neckline and armholes to prevent stretching.

Welt Pocket in Panel Seam

• Stitch the short ends of the Welt, turn right side out, and press the folds. Topstitch along the edges of the Welt.
• Align the raw edges of the Welt with the seam allowance of the front panel seam of the Center Front piece, placing the Welt on the right side of the Center Front and matching the top edge of the Welt to the notch.
• Place the upper Pocket Bag on top of the Welt and baste all layers together.
• Place the lower Pocket Bag on the right side of the Side Front piece.
• Stitch the Welt and both pocket bags in place.
• Stitch the front panel seams, enclosing the pocket construction.
• Turn the pocket bags to the inside, align them, and stitch together.
• Secure the short ends of the Welt to the front panel seam, stitching through the welt ends into the seam at the line of topstitching.

Front Yoke Assembly

Stitch the lower front sections to the yokes. Press the seam allowances toward the yokes and topstitch.

Center Back Seam, Vent & Back Yoke

• Stitch the center back seam up to the vent marking. Press seam allowances to the left side and topstitch.
• Fold the left back vent allowance to the right side of the garment, stitch along the hem fold line, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch along the left vent fold.
• Fold the hem allowance of the right back section to the right side, stitch along the edge of the vent allowance, turn right side out, and press.
• Lay the vent to the left side and secure it at the top with a diagonal reinforcement stitch.
• Attach the Back Yoke to the Back, press seam allowances toward the Yoke, and topstitch.
• Stitch the side seams and shoulder seams.

Collar Assembly

• Stitch the collar stands to the lower collar and the upper collar respectively.
• Press the seam allowances open.
• Topstitch on both sides of each seam.
• Set the lower collar with attached stand into the neckline of the main garment, matching notches.

Sleeve Tabs, Sleeve Assembly & Hem Finish

• Fold the sleeve tab pieces lengthwise along the center, right sides together, and stitch along the long edge and one short edge.
• Turn the tabs right side out, baste, and press.
• Stitch the upper sleeve seams.
• Press seam allowances toward the front sleeve and topstitch.
• Stitch the lower sleeve seam, inserting the sleeve tabs at the marked positions.
• Fold the belt loop strip lengthwise, right sides together, stitch along the long edges, turn right side out, press, and topstitch.
• Cut the strip into eight equal loop pieces.
• Turn under the raw ends of each loop and attach the loops to the sleeves at the marked positions.
• Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching all notches.
• Sew in shoulder pads.
• Press the sleeve hem allowance to the inside and hand-hem with invisible stitches

Lining, Center Front Facings & Upper Collar Assembly

Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Front lining pieces.

Join all lining pieces together to complete the lining assembly.

Set the upper collar into the neckline of the lining.

Place the outer garment and the lining right sides together.

Stitch in one continuous seam around the following areas:

– the lower edges of the Center Front Facings for 3 cm along the hem fold line,
– the front edges,
– and the collar.

Turn the garment right side out, press carefully, and topstitch along the collar and front edges.

Secure Collar Seam Allowances

From the wrong side, hand-stitch the seam allowances of the upper and lower collars together.

Hem & Lining Finishing

• Press the garment hem allowance to the inside and stitch along the edge.
• Cut the lining open directly above the vent, tapering the cut diagonally toward the base of the vent.
• Turn the lining vent allowances under and hand-stitch them to the vent allowances of the outer garment.
• Turn under the lining sleeve hem and hand-stitch it to the sleeve hem allowance of the outer garment.

Buttonholes & Buttons

• Work buttonholes on the sleeve tabs, the left Front, and the top buttonhole on the lapel as marked.
• Sew on the buttons.