Men's Double-Breasted Blazer

Men's Double-Breasted Blazer with Notched Collar, Chest Welt Pocket & Hip Double Welt Pockets with Flaps

Introducing a jacket pattern for the men’s double-breasted tailored blazer – Classic Sartorial Structure Meets Confident Masculine Elegance.

When To Wear

With sharp tailoring and traditional structure, this double-breasted jacket is a timeless investment in elevated menswear:

• Formal Events: Weddings, business functions, or special occasions—always appropriate with trousers and a crisp shirt.
• Classic Officewear: a powerful statement piece for professional meetings and traditional business settings.
• Evening Out: Pair with dark denim or flannel trousers for elevated, masculine charm.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Structured fit with sharp lines, lightly tapered waist, and extended shoulder shaping.

Closure: Double-breasted front with six buttons.

Collar & Lapel: Classic notch collar with wide lapel and tailored construction.

Pockets: Two hip double-welt pockets with flaps and one chest welt pocket for timeless polish.

Sleeves: Two-piece tailored sleeves with vents and buttons.

Back: Center back seam for shaping and ease of movement.

Lining & Interfacing: Fully lined with fusible interfacing for inner support and lasting form.

Style: Refined and confident—cut for traditional suiting in wool or blended coatings.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Suitable for experienced sewists with knowledge of structured tailoring, pad stitching, and full lining assembly.

Fabric Recommendations

Opt for traditional tailored fabrics to maintain crisp structure and long wear:

• Wool or wool-blend suiting (plain, herringbone, or subtle plaid)
• Semi-structured coatings (gabardine, tweed, or Melton)
• Tonal lining fabric for inside finishing

Avoid fluid or drapey fabrics, which will not support the construction.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible Interfacing
• Synthetic Padding Strip
• Lining Fabric
• Buttons: 7 medium buttons (20 mm) + 6 small buttons (14 mm)
• Shoulder Pads

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Side – 2 pieces
4. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Upper Collar – 1 piece
7. Lower Collar – 1 piece
8. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
9. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
10. Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
11. Chest Pocket Welt (marked on pattern as “Pocket Off-Set Welt”) – 1 piece
12. Pocket Bag (for Chest pocket) - 1 piece
13. Hip Pocket Facings – 4 rectangles (16.5 x 2 cm)
14. Hip Pocket Lining – 2 rectangles (18.5 х 21 cm)

From Lining Fabric:

Use main pattern pieces with the following modifications:

1. Back Lining – use Back pattern, add 2 cm ease pleat at center back, cut 2.
2. Front Lining – use Front excluding facing area; cut 2.
3. Side - cut 2.
4. Upper Sleeve – use Upper Sleeve pattern excluding vent extension; cut 2.
5. Lower Sleeve – use Lower Sleeve pattern excluding vent extension; cut 2.
6. Pocket Flap – cut 2.
7. Pocket Bag (Chest pocket) – cut 1.
8. Hip Pocket Lining – 2 rectangles (18.5 х 21 cm)
9. Shorten both jacket and sleeve linings by 2 cm at hem.

From Fusible Interfacing:

1. Front – 2 pieces
2. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
3. Upper Collar - 1 piece
4. Stand Stand - 2 pieces
5. Lower Collar – 1 piece
6. Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
7. Chest Pocket Welt - 1 piece
8. Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, Sleeves and Vents.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Preparation

From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to Fronts, Center Front Facings, Upper Collar and Lower Collar, Collar Stands, Pocket Flaps, Chest Pocket Welt, Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, and Sleeves

2. Body Shaping

• Slash pocket opening on the front, stitch dart, cut along fold, and press open.
• Baste along pocket opening edges.

3. Pocket Flaps

• With right sides together, stitch each Pocket Flap to its lining.
• Turn right side out and press.

4. Chest Welt Pocket

On the Left Front, construct a single-welt breast pocket:

• Fold welt lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch short ends, trim corners, turn, and press.
• Place welt face down along pocket marking.
• Layer pocket lining (lining fabric) over welt, and main fabric pocket lining above, facing upward.
• Stitch 5 mm on each side of marking.
• Slash between stitching, clip diagonally to corners, turn to inside.
• Zigzag or hand-stitch welt’s free edge to lining pocket bag.
• Align pocket bags, stitch around contour.
• From right side, secure welt ends to garment.

5. Front Panel Seams

Stitch front panel seam; press allowances open.

6. Double-Welt Pockets with Flap

Construct double-welt pockets with flaps:

• Press welts lengthwise, wrong sides together.
• Pin upper and lower welts to Front along markings.
• Place lining pocket bag on lower welt; place main pocket bag on upper welt with flap inserted between upper welt and bag (flap turned upward).
• Stitch 5 mm from each side of marking.
• Cut opening through center, clip to corners.
• Turn pocket bags inside, roll welts to form 1 cm lips, press.
• Press flap down over opening.
• Zigzag welt edges to pocket bags.
• Align and stitch pocket bags together.
• From wrong side, secure welt ends to small fabric triangles.

7. Body Assembly

• Stitch Center Back seam.
• Join Front to Side; press seam allowances open.
• Join Sides to Back; press allowances open.
• Sew shoulder seams; press open.

8. Collar & Facings

Prepare Collars

• Lower Collar + Stand Collar: join the separate Stand Collar to the Lower Collar, right sides together; press seam allowances open.
• Upper Collar + Stand Collar: join the separate Stand Stand to the Upper Collar, right sides together; press seam allowances open.

Attach to Jacket & Facings

• Lower Collar + Stand Collar to Jacket: stitch the Lower Collar + Stand Collar to the jacket neckline. Clip curves and press allowances downward toward the jacket.
• Upper Collar + Stand Collar to Facings: stitch the Upper Collar + Stand Collar to the Center Front Facings; press allowances open.

Join Units

• With right sides together, place the Center Front Facing/Upper Collar unit over the jacket/Lower Collar unit.
• Stitch the lapels and collar edges in one pass.
• Trim corners, grade and notch curves, turn right side out, and press.
• Understitch where accessible (under-collar/lapel seams) to keep the turn crisp.

9. Sleeves – Two-Piece with Vent

• Stitch Upper and Lower Sleeve together to vent notch, easing as necessary; press open.
• Turn sleeve right side out.
• Fold vent and hem allowances to right side, stitch diagonal across vent corner for clean miter, trim to 1 cm, press open.
• Turn allowances inside, secure with cross-stitch, form vent overlap.

Sleeve Cap

• Ease-stitch between notches, pull threads to fit armhole.
• Steam-shrink fullness.
• Stitch sleeve seam, press open.
• Set sleeves into armholes, sewing from sleeve side.
• Fold padding (if used) and hand-stitch to sleeve caps.

10. Lining

Lining Assembly

• Construct lining body in the same sequence as the shell except:
  • Do not sew the sleeve hem closed.
  • Leave a 20 cm opening in one sleeve seam for turning the coat.

  Sleeve Lining & Vent Finish

  • Sew lining sleeves (upper + lower sleeve pieces) together like the outer shell, but do not include vents — lining sleeve hems remain straight.
  • Attach sleeve lining at the armhole only.
  • At sleeve hem:
    • Fold sleeve hem allowance of the shell to the inside and secure by hand slipstitch or cross-stitch (leave vents free).
    • Fold lining sleeve edge under by 2–3 cm shorter than shell sleeve, and hand-stitch to sleeve hem allowance, stopping before the vent opening.
    • The sleeve vent area remains unattached and free to function.

    Final Lining Attachment

    • Insert the lining into the jacket, right sides together.
      • Stitch lining to Front facings, Back neckline

      9. Finishing

      • Work buttonholes on both Fronts and lapels; sew buttons.
      • Work decorative non-cut buttonholes on the sleeves; secure vents with buttons.
      • Final press and shaping.