Men's Notched Lapel Three Button Jacket
A men's single-breasted jacket with notched lapels, a three-button front, a chest welt pocket and flapped double-welt hip pockets. Canvassed upper fronts, a centre back vent and a full lining.
When To Wear
- As a suit jacket with matching trousers for business and formal occasions.
- As a separate jacket with wool trousers or chinos and a shirt, in autumn, winter and spring.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Shaped by front darts that run into the hip pockets and by side panels between front and back; padded shoulders.
Length: Hip length, covering the seat; rounded front edges at the hem.
Collar: Notched lapels with a buttonhole in the left lapel. The upper collar has a separate stand piece; the under collar is cut in two halves with a centre back seam.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and wadding sleeve heads; vents with mitred corners, closed with four buttons, buttonholes worked but not cut.
Front: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the left front; separate front facings.
Pockets: Single-welt chest pocket on the left front; double-welt hip pockets with lined flaps on both fronts.
Back: Centre back seam with a vent lapped to the left.
Finishing: Canvas pad-stitched to the upper fronts; fusible interfacing on the fronts, side panels, collar pieces, flaps, welts, vent allowance and hem allowances; seams pressed open; jacket and sleeve hems sewn by hand; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining with a 2 cm ease pleat at the centre back and a jump pleat at the hem, sewn around the vent; the jacket is turned through an opening in a sleeve lining seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Hand pad-stitched canvas, shrinking the shoulder and sleeve with the iron, flapped double-welt pockets, a lined back vent, mitred sleeve vents and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend suiting. Checks can be used if the pieces are laid out so the checks match at the seams.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric in a matching colour
- Canvas interfacing, 40 cm of 90 cm width, for the upper fronts
- Fusible interfacing, 1.2 m of 140 cm width
- Polyester wadding strip, 80 cm long and 8 cm wide, for the sleeve heads
- 3 buttons, 17 mm
- 8 buttons, 12 mm
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Pocket Off-Set Welt – 1 piece
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece (on the fold)
- Stand Collar – 1 piece (on the fold)
- Lower Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket welt strips – rectangles 19 × 3 cm – 4 pieces
- From lining (use the main pattern pieces; shorten the lining hem of the jacket and sleeves by 2 cm):
- Back – 2 pieces (add 2 cm at the center back line for the ease pleat)
- Front – 2 pieces (without the facing area)
- Side – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces (without the vent allowances)
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces (without the vent allowances)
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: Upper Collar, Lower Collar, Stand Collar, Fronts, Sides, Pocket Flaps, pocket welt strips, jacket and sleeve hem allowances, half the width of the Pocket Off-Set Welt and the vent allowance of the left Back.
- From canvas interfacing: the upper part of the Front, from the lapel marking to the dotted line.
Sewing Instructions
Note: As you stitch the pieces, press all seam allowances open.
- Reinforce the Fronts, Sides, Upper and Lower Collars, Stand Collar, half the width of the Pocket Off-Set Welt, the main-fabric Pocket Flaps, the vent allowance of the left Back, and the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves with fusible interfacing (fusible interfacing is pressed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Cut the pocket opening on the Front, stitch the darts, cut them along the fold and press open; baste the edges of the pocket opening together.
- On the left Front, make the chest welt pocket: fold the Pocket Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short edges; turn out and press. Pin the welt, turned downwards, to the right side of the garment according to the markings. Place the lining Pocket Bag over the welt; pin the main-fabric Pocket Bag, turned upwards, and stitch 5 mm on both sides of the marking. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally into the corners at the ends of the stitching, and turn the pocket bags to the wrong side. Zigzag the free edge of the welt onto the pocket bag. Place both pocket bags together, align, and stitch around the edges. From the right side, topstitch the ends of the welt to the garment.
- Stitch the Front to the Side.
- Place the main-fabric Pocket Flap and the lining Pocket Flap right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, turn out and press.
- On each Front, make a double-welt pocket with flap: press the welt strips in half lengthwise. Pin the welt strips, turned in opposite directions, to the right side of the garment according to the markings. Place the lining Big Pocket Bag on the lower welt strip and the main-fabric Big Pocket Bag on the upper welt strip, inserting the Pocket Flap, turned upwards, between the upper welt strip and the main-fabric pocket bag, and stitch 5 mm on both sides of the marking. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally into the corners at the ends of the stitching, turn the pocket bags to the wrong side and set the welts so they fill the 1 cm opening. Zigzag the free edges of the welt strips onto the pocket bags. Place both pocket bags together, align, and stitch around the edges. From the wrong side, stitch the ends of the welts to the fabric triangles.
- Stitch the center back seam up to the vent mark, then stitch the upper edges of the vent allowances.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, first shrinking the marked area with the iron.
- Pad-stitch the canvas to the wrong side of the Front according to the markings.
- Stitch the Back to the Side, first shrinking the marked area with the iron.
- Stitch the center seam of the Lower Collar and press the seam allowances open.
- Set the Lower Collar into the neckline of the garment, matching the notches to the shoulder seams; stitch the Upper Collar to the Center Front Facings. Place the facings joined with the Upper Collar on the garment right sides together and stitch along the collar and front edges; turn out and press. Sew the lower edge of the Upper Collar to the back neckline of the garment.
- Make the two-piece sleeve with a vent: stitch the Upper Sleeve to the Lower Sleeve along the back seam up to the vent mark, first shrinking the back edge of the Upper Sleeve with the iron; press the seam allowances open and turn the sleeve right side out. Fold the vent allowances and the hem allowance to the right side, stitch the corner diagonally, trim the excess fabric 1 cm from the seam and press the seam allowances open. Turn the hem and vent allowances to the inside, press, catch-stitch them in place and lap the vent.
- Set in the sleeve: ease the sleeve cap with small running stitches between the indicated marks and draw up the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole. Dampen the fabric and shrink the fullness with the tip of a hot iron. Stitch the remaining sleeve seam and press the seam allowances open. Pin the sleeve to the armhole, matching the notches, and stitch from the sleeve side. Cut the wadding strip in half and sew it to the wrong side along the sleeve caps.
- Fold the vent allowance of the left Back to the right side of the garment and stitch along the hemline; fold the hem allowance of the right Back to the right side of the garment and stitch along the edge of the vent allowance; turn out and press. Lay the vent towards the left side and press.
- Press the jacket hem allowance inwards and hem with blind stitches; hem the sleeves in the same way.
- Sew on the shoulder pads.
- Make the lining: fold the ease pleat at the center back and secure it below the neckline and a few centimeters above the hem. Stitch the lining pieces in the same way as the main garment, leaving approx. 20 cm open in the back seam of one sleeve. Place the lining in the garment right sides together, matching the center back lines and shoulder seams. Stitch the lining to the garment along the facings and neckline. Fold an ease pleat along the hem and stitch the lining to the edge of the hem allowance, stitching the lining along the fold of the right back vent facing and along the edge of the left back vent facing (first clip the lining horizontally at the top of the left back vent).
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining and stitch the opening closed.
- Work the buttonholes on the left Front according to the markings; sew on the buttons. Work the buttonholes on the sleeves (do not cut them open) and close the sleeve vents with buttons.
