Single-Breasted Raglan Sleeve Overcoat

Single-Breasted Overcoat with Raglan Sleeves & Generous Patch Pockets with Flaps

A men's knee-length single-breasted overcoat with two-piece raglan sleeves, notched lapels, a three-button front and flapped patch pockets. Centre back vent, topstitching 1 cm from the collar and front edges, and a full lining.

When To Wear

• Over a suit or jacket in autumn and winter.
• With knitwear and trousers or jeans for everyday wear in cold weather.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, loose fit with no darts.

Length: About knee length.

Collar: Notched lapels. The upper collar has a separate stand; the under collar has a cut-on stand. Buttonhole in the left lapel.

Sleeves: Raglan, cut in two parts (front and back) with a seam running over the shoulder to the hem. A buttoned tab near the hem is caught in that seam.

Front: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the left front; separate front facings.

Pockets: Lined patch pockets with rounded lower corners, topstitched 1.5 cm below the top fold and stitched on 1 cm from the side and lower edges; lined flaps above them, topstitched 1 cm from the edge.

Back: Centre back seam, topstitched 1 cm from the seam, with a vent.

Finishing: Fusible interfacing on the fronts, facings, upper and under collars, stand, flaps, pocket hems and coat hem. Collar and front edges topstitched 1 cm, flaps 1 cm and sleeve tabs 1.5 cm from the edge; hem optionally topstitched 1 cm.

Lining: Full lining with a 2 cm ease pleat at the centre back and a jump pleat at the hem; the coat is turned through a 20 cm opening in a sleeve lining seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A lined back vent, an upper collar with a separate stand set between the coat and the facings, raglan sleeves with tabs, and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Wool or wool-blend coating, with or without a nap. The sample is made in beige wool herringbone broadcloth.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric in a matching colour
• Fusible interfacing
• 3 buttons, 25 mm, for the front
• 2 buttons, 15 mm, for the sleeve tabs

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Upper Collar – 1 piece
6. Stand Collar (for Upper Collar only) - 1 piece
7. Lower Collar (with integrated stand) – 1 piece
8. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
9. Pocket – 2 pieces
10. Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
11. Sleeve Decorative Tab - 2 pieces

From Lining Fabric:

For drafting the lining pattern pieces, use the following patterns with the following modifications:

1. Back lining: use Back pattern adding a 2 cm ease pleat at center back - cut 2.
2. Front lining: use the Front pattern excluding Center Front Facing area - cut 2.
3. Back Sleeve lining - use Back Sleeve pattern, cut 2.
4. Front Sleeve lining - use Front Sleeve pattern, cut 2 pieces.
5. Pocket lining: use pocket pattern shortening it by 3 cm, cut 2.
6. Pocket Flap – use Pocket Flap pattern, cut 2.
7. Sleeve Decorative Tab – use Sleeve Decorative Tab pattern without modifications, cut 2.
8. Shorten the lining length by 2 cm at the hem.

From Fusible Interfacing:

For drafting fusible interfacing patterns, use the following patterns:

1. Front – cut 2.
2. Center Front Facing – cut 2.
3. Upper Collar – cut 1.
4. Stand Collar – cut 1.
5. Lower Collar – cut 1.
6. Pocket Flap – cut 2.

Fusible Interfacing:

Apply interfacing to Fronts, Center Front Facings, Upper and Lower Collars, Stand Collar, Pocket Flaps, pocket hem allowance, coat hem allowance.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Preparation

Fuse Interfacing

From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to:

• Fronts
• Center Front Facings
• Upper Collar
• Stand Collar
• Lower Collar
• Pocket Flaps
• Pocket hem allowances
• Coat hem allowance

Press firmly using a hot iron and press cloth to ensure proper bonding.

2. Patch Pockets & Flaps

Patch Pockets

• The pocket lining is 3 cm shorter than the main pocket to form a self-facing.
• With right sides together, stitch pocket lining to the upper edge of the pocket piece.
• Turn lining to the wrong side so that 3 cm of main fabric folds inside as a facing. Press.
• Fold pocket and lining right sides together again. Stitch around the remaining edges, leaving a 2–3 cm opening for turning.
• Clip corners, turn right side out, and press flat.
• Close the opening with hand slipstitch.
• Topstitch 1.5 cm from the top fold to secure the facing line.
• Position pocket on the front panel according to markings. Baste, then topstitch 1 cm around the sides and lower edge to secure.

Pocket Flaps

• Place flap and lining right sides together.
• Stitch around all edges except the top (attachment) edge.
• Trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
• Topstitch 1 cm from the edge (omit top edge).
• Position flap above pocket opening with flap pointing upward.
• Stitch along the top edge only to attach it to the front.
• Fold flap downward over the pocket and press neatly.
• Optionally, topstitch 1 cm along the flap fold to secure position.

3. Back & Vent

Back Assembly

• Stitch center back seam up to vent marking.
• Press seam allowances open and topstitch 1 cm from the seam.

Back Vent

• Fold left vent facing to right side along hem foldline; stitch along hem fold. Turn right side out and press.
• Fold right back hem allowance to right side along vent edge; stitch, turn out, and press.
• Overlap vent to the left side and secure top corner with a diagonal reinforcement stitch.
• Join side seams and press allowances open.

4. Sleeves & Tabs

Assemble Sleeves

• Stitch sleeve underarm seam; press seam open.

Set Sleeves

• Insert sleeves into raglan armholes, matching all notches and balance points.
• Stitch and press seam allowances toward the sleeve.

Prepare Sleeve Tabs

• Place each tab and its lining right sides together.
• Stitch around all edges except the short top edge.
• Trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
• Topstitch 1.5 cm from finished edges.

Attach Tabs

• Position tabs on sleeves according to placement markings, right sides up.
• Baste along the unstitched top edge.

Anchor Tabs in Raglan Seam

• Stitch the shoulder/raglan seam, catching the top edge of each tab into the seam.
• Press seam allowances toward the coat body.

5. Collar & Facings

(Upper Collar has a separate stand; Lower Collar has an integrated stand.)

Prepare Collars

• Upper Collar + Separate Stand Collar: Stitch the collar stand to the outer collar, right sides together. Press seam allowances open (optionally understitch toward the stand).
• Lower Collar (Integrated Stand): No joining seam. Staystitch the neckline if needed; shape along the roll line.

Attach Lower Collar to Coat

• Pin the Lower Collar to the neckline, right sides together, matching notches.
• Stitch neckline seam, clip curves, and press seam allowances downward.

Attach Upper Collar to Facings

• Stitch the Upper Collar + Stand Collar to the Center Front Facings, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward facings.

Join Facings to Jacket

• Place the Center Front Facings + Upper Collar unit right sides together over the coat body (with Lower Collar already attached).
• Stitch continuously from hem → lapel → collar → down opposite front.
• Grade seams, clip corners, notch curves, turn right side out, and press flat (understitch where accessible).

Finish Inner Neckline

• Turn under the inner edge of the upper collar stand and fell-stitch it neatly to conceal the neckline seam.
• Topstitch 1 cm around collar and front edges for a decorative finish.

6. Hem & Lining

Hem

• Turn coat hem allowance to the inside and press.

Lining

• Create a center back pleat for wearing ease; secure at neckline and a few cm above hem.
• Assemble lining as for the coat, leaving a 20 cm opening in one sleeve seam for turning.
• With right sides together, stitch lining to the coat along front facings and neckline.
• Fold up the hem allowance, forming a jump pleat, and stitch lining to the hem edge, catching it to vent facings (clip at the base of the left vent lining if needed).
• Turn coat right side out through the sleeve opening and close the opening by hand.
• Topstitch 1 cm along the finished coat hem if desired.

7. Finishing

• Work buttonholes on the left Front.
• Sew buttons on the right Front and Sleeve Decorative Tabs as marked.
• Remove all basting threads.
• Give the coat a final press and shape lapel roll over a tailor’s ham.