Button-Front Shirt Jacket with Flap Pockets
Introducing a versatile men's sewing pattern for a button-front shirt jacket, featuring structured chest flap pockets, a classic collar, and a defined waistband.
When To Wear
This button-front shirt jacket is a perfect layering piece, suitable for a range of casual and smart-casual occasions:
- Everyday Casual: Ideal for daily wear, providing a stylish yet relaxed outer layer over t-shirts or lighter shirts.
- Transitional Seasons: Perfect for spring and autumn when a light jacket is needed.
- Utility & Workwear Styling: Its sturdy construction and practical pockets lend themselves well to a contemporary workwear aesthetic.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a relaxed, boxy fit through the body, extending to a hip-length hem, with a structured waistband.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic pointed collar with a separate stand, providing a clean and tailored neckline.
Closure: a full button-front placket secured with multiple buttons.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves finished with tailored cuffs and plackets, designed for comfort and ease of movement.
Pockets: Two prominent patch pockets with inverted pleats on the chest, each secured with a buttoned flap.
Back: a clean back panel defined by a two-piece yoke across the shoulders.
Hem & Waist: a distinct waistband finishes the hem, which may incorporate elastic at the back for comfort and includes belt loops.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires skills in collar stand construction, setting two-piece sleeves, creating cuffs with plackets, and assembling flap pockets and a waistband.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose durable, medium to heavy-weight fabrics that hold their shape well:
- Dense cotton fabrics (e.g., denim, twill)
- Cotton gabardine
Additional Supplies
- 35 cm of fusible interfacing (140 cm wide)
- Elastic tape/band
- 12 matching buttons, 10 mm diameter
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the outer collar, collar stand, and cuff details with fusible interfacing (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed onto the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron).
- Press the placket seam allowance of the front to the wrong side of the detail, baste along the fold. Stitch along the placket line.
- Create pleats on the pocket according to the markings, press and stitch decorative lines 3 mm from the folds.
- Press the top hem of the pocket inwards, turn under the raw edge and stitch along the edge.
- Press the open edges of the pocket inwards, place on the front according to the markings and stitch along the edge.
- Fold the pocket flap details right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, turn right side out, press and stitch a decorative line 5 mm from the edge.
- Place the flap, turned downwards, on the right side of the front according to the markings and baste to the front. Stitch the flap to the front, press towards the front and stitch a decorative line 5 mm from the edge.
- Fold the yoke details right sides together, insert the back between them, aligning the edges, and stitch; turn right side out, press and stitch a decorative line 5 mm from the edge.
- Stitch the yoke details to the front panels, aligning the notches, similarly to the back, inserting the front panels between the yoke pieces.
- Construct the "collar with stand" - Reinforce one collar stand and collar detail with fusible interfacing. Fold both collar details right sides together and stitch along the outer contour; turn right side out, press and stitch a decorative line 5 mm from the edge.
- Fold both collar stand details right sides together, insert the collar between the upper edges according to the markings, placing the reinforced stand detail on the reinforced collar detail, and stitch, continuing the seam along the extensions for the closure.
- Straighten the collar, press the open edges of the stand inwards, insert the neckline between them and stitch along the edge, continuing the decorative stitching along the upper seam of the stand.
- Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the sleeve up to the slit mark, overlock and press the seam allowances towards the upper of the sleeve, below the slit, press the seam allowances open.
- Construct the "sleeve slit" - Pin the slit facing right side to the wrong side of the sleeve according to the markings and stitch along the edge. Finish the open edge with a machine-stitched hem.
- Make notches in the seam allowances at the base of the slit and turn half the width of the facing to the right side of the garment. Fold under the open edges of the facing and stitch along the edge to the sleeve.
- Set the sleeve into the armhole, aligning the notches, overlock the seam allowances, press towards the armhole and stitch a decorative line 5 mm from the edge.
- Stitch the side and sleeve seams in one step using a "French seam" - Fold the details right sides together and stitch. Press the seam allowances forward, trim half the width of the lower seam allowance, fold under the upper and stitch along the edge to the main garment with a double decorative stitch.
- Create pleats at the bottom of the sleeve according to the markings, press and baste along the edges.
- Fold the cuff details right sides together, stitch the short and one long edge and turn right side out.
- Place the cuff with the reinforced detail on the lower edge of the sleeve right sides together and stitch; straighten the cuff, press the open edge inwards and stitch to the main garment along the previous seam, continuing the decorative stitching 5 mm around the entire perimeter of the cuff.
- Stitch the belt details along the short sides, press the seam allowances open.
- Place the belt on the lower edge of the jacket right sides together and stitch; turn and straighten the belt, press the open edge of the belt inwards and stitch horizontal lines for the elastic tape according to the markings.
- Insert pieces of elastic tape into the created casings, secure them with vertical stitches according to the markings.
- Stitch the open edge of the belt to the main garment, continuing the decorative stitching 5 mm around the entire perimeter of the belt.
- Fold the belt loop detail in half lengthwise right side in, stitch along the long edges, turn right side out, press and stitch decorative lines along the edges; cut the detail into 4 pieces.
- Fold under the open edges of the belt loops, place the belt loops on the belt according to the markings and stitch along the edges.
- Make buttonholes on the left front, collar stand, pocket flaps, and cuffs according to the markings. Sew on buttons.
