Field Jacket in Classic Utility Style with Angled Welt Pockets & Patch Pockets with Buttoned Flaps
Introducing a digital pattern for the structured jacket with patch pockets, angled welt pockets, and button-front closure – Functional Style with Tailored Utility.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket combines rugged practicality with refined tailoring, making it suitable for:
- Outdoor City Wear: a stylish layer for transitional seasons.
- Travel & Adventure: Durable structure and practical pocket design.
- Smart Casual Outfits: Works equally well with denim, trousers, or over a shirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, structured cut with tailored shoulder line.
Closure: Front button placket with medium to large buttons for secure fastening.
Collar: Classic shirt-style collar with structured stand.
Pockets: Two large patch pockets with flaps and buttons, plus two angled welt pockets on the chest.
Sleeves: Long sleeves with buttoned cuffs for adjustability.
Back: Yoke seam across the shoulders for structure and ease.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate to Advanced. Involves precision in sewing welt pockets, attaching flaps, and setting structured collar and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
- Wool coating or wool blends with structure
- Twill, gabardine, or canvas
- Leather (for a more elevated version)
Recommended lining fabric: lightweight satin or cupro in matching tone.
Additional Supplies
- Wool fabric
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Cotton fabric in matching tone for pocket bags
- 10 leather-covered buttons, 22 mm diameter (6 for the front placket, 2 for each pocket flap)
- 4 leather-covered buttons, 18 mm diameter
- One two-way separating zipper, 64 cm (length may vary depending on size)
Cutter’s Must
From Main Fabric:
- Back - 1 piece
- Front 2 pieces
- Yoke - 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Left Closure Placket - 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar - 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Patch Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket Side – 2 pieces
- Pocket Welt (marked on pattern as “Pocket Off-Set Welt”) - 2 pieces
- Right Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Cuffs - 4 pieces
- Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces
From Cotton Fabric:
- Pocket Bag (for welt pocket) – 4 pieces
- Patch Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
From Lining Fabric:
For drafting the lining patterns, use the following patterns with the following modifications:
- Back lining: use Back pattern shortening it by 2 cm, cut 1.
- Front lining: use Front pattern shortening it by 2 cm, cut 2 pieces.
- Yoke: use Yoke pattern without any modifications, cut 1.
- Upper Sleeve - use Upper Sleeve pattern shortening it by 3 cm, cut 2.
- Lower Sleeve - use Lower Sleeve pattern shortening it by 3 cm, cut 2.
From Fusible Interfacing:
For drafting the fusible interfacing patterns, use the following patterns:
- Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, and Sleeves (copy strips from the patterns)
- Upper and Lower Collars, cut 1 each.
- Stand Collar, cut 2.
- Left Closure Placket, cut 1. If you like it to be stiff, then cut 2 and fuse it to both pieces.
- Right Center Front Facing, cut 1. If you like it to be stiff, then cut 2 and fuse it to both pieces.
- Half of Pocket Welt, cut 2.
- Patch Pocket, cut 2.
- Patch Pocket Flap, cut 2. If you like it to be stiff, then cut 4 and fuse it to all 4 pieces.
Important Information
Before cutting your fabric:
- Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
- Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
- For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.
Assembly Instructions
1. Preparation – Fuse Interfacing
From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to:
- Upper Collar and Lower Collar
- Both Stand Collars
- Patch Pockets
- Pocket Flaps
- Pocket Welts (half width)
- Right Center Front Facing
- Left Closure Placket
- Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, and Sleeves
Press with a hot iron and press cloth until fully bonded.
2. Patch Pockets (with a Side)
- Fold the Pocket Side of the pocket in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch 2–3 mm from folded edge.
- Attach one long edge of the Pocket Side to the side and bottom edges of the Pocket, right sides together (leave top hem extension free).
- Press the sewn Pocket Side inward; topstitch along the edge.
- Place both Patch Pocket Lining pieces right sides together; stitch sides and bottom.
- Attach the upper edge of one Patch Pocket Lining piece to the top of the pocket, right sides together. Turn to inside, press, and topstitch 1.5 cm from top edge.
- Fold the remaining lining allowance and pocket raw edges under.
- Place pocket onto Front using markings; baste, then topstitch around edges.
3. Pocket Flaps
- Place each Flap and its lower flap right sides together.
- Stitch around sides and lower edge; leave top edge open.
- Trim corners, turn right side out, press.
- Topstitch 1 cm around the edge.
- Position Flap face-up on Front above pocket opening; stitch along top edge.
- Trim seam to 5 mm, turn flap down, press.
- Topstitch 1 cm along fold to secure in place.
4. Welt Pocket (on Left and Right Fronts)
- Fold each welt lengthwise, right sides together.
- Stitch the short ends, trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
- Topstitch 1 cm along the folded edge, tapering diagonally into the corners (as per the original).
Pocket Construction
- Mark the welt pocket opening on both Fronts.
- Place the welt face down along the marked line.
- Place the first pocket bag (cotton fabric) over the welt, right sides together.
- Place the second pocket bag (cotton fabric) above the opening, facing down toward the welt.
- Stitch 5 mm from both sides of the opening marking through all layers.
Turning and Securing the Pocket
- Cut the opening between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally into corners.
- Turn both pocket bags to the inside.
- Zigzag the free fold of the welt to the upper pocket bag.
- Align both pocket bags and stitch around their edges to close.
- From the right side, secure welt ends to the garment with short diagonal stitches or bar tacks.
5. Yoke & Body Assembly
- Place Back and Yoke right sides together; stitch across shoulder area.
- Turn right side out; press seam upward toward Yoke. Topstitch 1 cm.
- Attach Yoke to both Fronts in same way.
- Sew side seams; press allowances toward Back and topstitch 0.5 cm.
6. Sleeves & Sleeve Placket
Upper Sleeve Assembly
- Sew upper and lower sleeve pieces together up to slit marking.
- Overlock seam allowances; press toward upper sleeve and topstitch 1 cm.
- Below slit marking — press seam allowances open.
Sleeve Placket (vent facing on sleeve):
- Place sleeve placket facing right side to wrong side of sleeve, aligning with marked slit. Stitch along marked line.
- Slash slit between stitches to vent.
- Fold raw edges under; finish opening edges with narrow hem (1–2 mm).
- Clip seam at base of slit, fold half of placket to right side; press and topstitch along slit.
Complete Sleeve
- Sew lower sleeve seam; press open.
- Insert sleeve into armhole, matching notches.
- Overlock seam allowances; press toward armhole and topstitch 1 cm.
7. Cuffs
- Place Cuff and its lower cuff right sides together; stitch side seams and one long edge. Turn, press.
- Align cuff to sleeve hem, right sides together; stitch.
- Turn cuff down, press seam allowance upward.
- Fold inner cuff edge inside and stitch along previous seam.
- Continue decorative topstitching 0.5 cm around cuff.
8. Left Closure Placket & Right Center Front Facing
- Stitch Left Closure Placket pieces right sides together (curved and lower edge); turn, press, topstitch 1 cm.
- Assemble Right Center Front Facing in same way.
9. Collar Construction
- Join each Stand Collar to its matching Collar (Upper & Lower), right sides together; press seams open and topstitch or understitch if desired.
- Attach Lower Collar with stand to shell neckline, right sides together; clip curves, press allowances downward.
- Attach Upper Collar with stand to lining neckline.
10. Zipper & Joining Shell + Lining
- Open zipper.
- Pin right half of zipper (teeth toward side seam) to Right Center Front Facing on right side; place facing over zipper and baste.
- Pin left half of zipper to Left Closure Placket in same way.
- With shell and lining right sides together, align edges; turn up shell hem onto lining.
- Stitch collar and entire front edge, catching zipper and facings in seam.
- Turn right side out, press.
- From wrong side, slipstitch lower edge of upper collar stand to neckline.
11. Lining Assembly
Construct Lining (same sequence as shell, without topstitching):
- Join Back lining to Yoke lining. Press seam allowances upward.
- Sew Front lining pieces to Back lining at shoulder seams. Press open.
- Sew side seams of lining. Press toward the back.
- Sew upper and lower sleeve lining pieces together along both sleeve seams (no vents, no plackets). Press allowances open.
- Set lining sleeves into the armholes of the lining body.
- Leave a 20 cm opening in one sleeve seam (for turning the garment right side out later).
12. Attach Lining to Shell
Join Lining to Left Closure Placket, Right Center Front Facing & Collar:
- With right sides together, insert the lining into the shell jacket.
- Align shoulder seams, neckline, and front edges.
- Stitch lining to:
- Left Closure Placket
- Right Center Front Facing / Zipper Placket edge
- Stand Collar and neckline
13. Hem & Sleeve Lining Finish
Hem Area:
- Turn hem allowance of the shell to the inside and press.
- Fold lining hem allowance up (2 cm shorter than shell).
- Form a small ease/jump pleat at side seams.
- Slipstitch or machine-stitch lining to hem allowance.
Sleeve Lining Attachment with Functional Sleeve Placket & Cuff
- Insert lining sleeves into the coat sleeves after the cuffs and sleeve plackets are completed, wrong sides together.
- Match sleeve lining underarm seams to sleeve underarm seams.
- Smooth the lining inside so it hangs evenly, keeping it 2–3 cm shorter than the shell sleeve.
Attach lining at armhole:
- Fold lining seam allowance under 0.5–1 cm.
- Hand- or machine-stitch the lining to the sleeve’s armhole seam allowance only (this prevents lining from pulling out when worn).
Attach lining to cuff (only on closed section):
- Fold the raw edge of the sleeve lining hem under 1–1.5 cm.
- Tuck this fold between the outer (interfaced) cuff and inner cuff layers.
- Slipstitch (or fell-stitch) to the cuff seam allowance only across the closed part of the sleeve — stop 2–3 cm before the sleeve placket slit on both sides.
- Do not stitch across the vent opening.
Sleeve placket area — leave free:
- If the lining feels tight near the top of the sleeve placket, make a small diagonal snip in the lining seam allowance for ease.
- Fold raw edges under and press.
- Do not attach lining to the sleeve placket opening — it must hang free so the sleeve vent remains functional.
14. Turn & Finish
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening left in the sleeve lining.
- Smooth lining inside the garment.
- Slipstitch the sleeve opening closed.
- Add small swing tacks between lining and shell at underarm and side seams if needed.
