Single-Breasted Overcoat with Raglan Sleeves & Generous Patch Pockets with Flaps
Introducing a digital pattern for a straight overcoat with raglan sleeves and roomy patch pockets – Relaxed Tailoring with Timeless Elegance.
When To Wear
This coat delivers understated sophistication and all-day comfort, perfect for:
- City Errands & Travel: Easy to layer over tailoring or knitwear for crisp days.
- Weekend Outings: a classic shape that works with casual or dressed-up looks.
- Seasonal Transitions: Medium-weight wool keeps you warm without bulk.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, knee-length overcoat with a relaxed raglan sleeve cut for ease of movement.
Collar & Lapels: Tailored notched collar and lapels.
Closure: Single-breasted front closure with three large buttons.
Sleeves: Two-piece raglan sleeves with adjustable buttoned straps.
Pockets: Generous patch pockets with flaps.
Back: Center-back seam with a vent for comfortable walking
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate to Advanced. Precision tailoring is required for the collar, raglan sleeves, and pocket flaps.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose warm, structured coatings to showcase the clean lines:
- Wool or wool-blend coatings, brushed or plain
- Wool herringbone or tweed for a heritage look
- Heavy suiting fabrics for a sleeker silhouette
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric – amount varies with size
- 3 large buttons (approx. 25 mm) for front closure
- 2 smaller buttons (approx. 15 mm)
Cutter’s Must
From Main Fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar (for Upper Collar only) - 1 piece
- Lower Collar (with integrated stand) – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Decorative Tab - 2 pieces
From Lining Fabric:
For drafting the lining pattern pieces, use the following patterns with the following modifications:
- Back lining: use Back pattern adding a 2 cm ease pleat at center back - cut 2.
- Front lining: use the Front pattern excluding Center Front Facing area - cut 2.
- Back Sleeve lining - use Back Sleeve pattern, cut 2.
- Front Sleeve lining - use Front Sleeve pattern, cut 2 pieces.
- Pocket lining: use pocket pattern shortening it by 3 cm, cut 2.
- Pocket Flap – use Pocket Flap pattern, cut 2.
- Sleeve Decorative Tab – use Sleeve Decorative Tab pattern without modifications, cut 2.
- Shorten the lining length by 2 cm at the hem.
From Fusible Interfacing:
For drafting fusible interfacing patterns, use the following patterns:
- Front – cut 2.
- Center Front Facing – cut 2.
- Upper Collar – cut 1.
- Stand Collar – cut 1.
- Lower Collar – cut 1.
- Pocket Flap – cut 2.
Fusible Interfacing:
Apply interfacing to Fronts, Center Front Facings, Upper and Lower Collars, Stand Collar, Pocket Flaps, pocket hem allowance, coat hem allowance.
Important Information
Before cutting your fabric:
- Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
- Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
- For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.
Assembly Instructions
1. Preparation
Fuse Interfacing
From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to:
- Fronts
- Center Front Facings
- Upper Collar
- Stand Collar
- Lower Collar
- Pocket Flaps
- Pocket hem allowances
- Coat hem allowance
Press firmly using a hot iron and press cloth to ensure proper bonding.
2. Patch Pockets & Flaps
Patch Pockets
- The pocket lining is 3 cm shorter than the main pocket to form a self-facing.
- With right sides together, stitch pocket lining to the upper edge of the pocket piece.
- Turn lining to the wrong side so that 3 cm of main fabric folds inside as a facing. Press.
- Fold pocket and lining right sides together again. Stitch around the remaining edges, leaving a 2–3 cm opening for turning.
- Clip corners, turn right side out, and press flat.
- Close the opening with hand slipstitch.
- Topstitch 1.5 cm from the top fold to secure the facing line.
- Position pocket on the front panel according to markings. Baste, then topstitch 1 cm around the sides and lower edge to secure.
Pocket Flaps
- Place flap and lining right sides together.
- Stitch around all edges except the top (attachment) edge.
- Trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
- Topstitch 1 cm from the edge (omit top edge).
- Position flap above pocket opening with flap pointing upward.
- Stitch along the top edge only to attach it to the front.
- Fold flap downward over the pocket and press neatly.
- Optionally, topstitch 1 cm along the flap fold to secure position.
3. Back & Vent
Back Assembly
- Stitch center back seam up to vent marking.
- Press seam allowances open and topstitch 1 cm from the seam.
Back Vent
- Fold left vent facing to right side along hem foldline; stitch along hem fold. Turn right side out and press.
- Fold right back hem allowance to right side along vent edge; stitch, turn out, and press.
- Overlap vent to the left side and secure top corner with a diagonal reinforcement stitch.
- Join side seams and press allowances open.
4. Sleeves & Tabs
Assemble Sleeves
- Stitch sleeve underarm seam; press seam open.
Set Sleeves
- Insert sleeves into raglan armholes, matching all notches and balance points.
- Stitch and press seam allowances toward the sleeve.
Prepare Sleeve Tabs
- Place each tab and its lining right sides together.
- Stitch around all edges except the short top edge.
- Trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
- Topstitch 1.5 cm from finished edges.
Attach Tabs
- Position tabs on sleeves according to placement markings, right sides up.
- Baste along the unstitched top edge.
Anchor Tabs in Raglan Seam
- Stitch the shoulder/raglan seam, catching the top edge of each tab into the seam.
- Press seam allowances toward the coat body.
5. Collar & Facings
(Upper Collar has a separate stand; Lower Collar has an integrated stand.)
Prepare Collars
- Upper Collar + Separate Stand Collar: Stitch the collar stand to the outer collar, right sides together. Press seam allowances open (optionally understitch toward the stand).
- Lower Collar (Integrated Stand): No joining seam. Staystitch the neckline if needed; shape along the roll line.
Attach Lower Collar to Coat
- Pin the Lower Collar to the neckline, right sides together, matching notches.
- Stitch neckline seam, clip curves, and press seam allowances downward.
Attach Upper Collar to Facings
- Stitch the Upper Collar + Stand Collar to the Center Front Facings, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward facings.
Join Facings to Jacket
- Place the Center Front Facings + Upper Collar unit right sides together over the coat body (with Lower Collar already attached).
- Stitch continuously from hem → lapel → collar → down opposite front.
- Grade seams, clip corners, notch curves, turn right side out, and press flat (understitch where accessible).
Finish Inner Neckline
- Turn under the inner edge of the upper collar stand and fell-stitch it neatly to conceal the neckline seam.
- Topstitch 1 cm around collar and front edges for a decorative finish.
6. Hem & Lining
Hem
- Turn coat hem allowance to the inside and press.
Lining
- Create a center back pleat for wearing ease; secure at neckline and a few cm above hem.
- Assemble lining as for the coat, leaving a 20 cm opening in one sleeve seam for turning.
- With right sides together, stitch lining to the coat along front facings and neckline.
- Fold up the hem allowance, forming a jump pleat, and stitch lining to the hem edge, catching it to vent facings (clip at the base of the left vent lining if needed).
- Turn coat right side out through the sleeve opening and close the opening by hand.
- Topstitch 1 cm along the finished coat hem if desired.
7. Finishing
- Work buttonholes on the left Front.
- Sew buttons on the right Front and Sleeve Decorative Tabs as marked.
- Remove all basting threads.
- Give the coat a final press and shape lapel roll over a tailor’s ham.
