Quilted Belted Jacket with Welt Pockets
A women's padded jacket below the hip with a centre-front zip, a padded stand collar, single-welt pockets and a separate tie belt. The body and sleeves are lined with polyester wadding and quilted with elastic thread in horizontal rows, which gathers the fabric into puffed bands.
When To Wear
- In cool autumn and spring weather, over jumpers, shirts and dresses.
- Day to day with jeans or trousers, belted at the waist or worn open.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Gathered into horizontal puffed bands, drawn in at the waist by the belt, flaring below it.
Length: Below the hip.
Collar: Stand collar, padded with wadding, cut as upper and under collar.
Closure: Zip at the centre front; zip length is marked on the front pattern piece.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts, with a facing on the large pocket bag and lining pocket bags.
Sleeves: Set-in, quilted with elastic thread like the body; a 2 cm elastic ring between the sleeve and its lining gathers the wrist.
Back: One piece, quilted in the same rows as the front.
Waist: Separate belt, sewn and turned, tied at the front.
Lining: Full lining with front facings and a back neck facing; jacket turned through an opening in the left side seam of the lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Quilting through wadding with elastic thread, welt pockets, a zip and a fully bagged lining with elastic at the wrists.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Polyester wadding (back, fronts, sleeves, collar)
- Fusible interfacing (welts and pocket area)
- Zip (length marked on the front pattern piece)
- Elastic thread
- Elastic, 2 cm wide
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Underlay – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Back lining – 1 piece
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From synthetic padding:
- Back synthetic padding – 1 piece
- Front synthetic padding – 2 pieces
- Sleeve synthetic padding – 2 pieces
- Collar synthetic padding – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the welt and the welt placement area with fusible interfacing.
- Place the back, front, and sleeve pieces onto the corresponding synthetic padding pieces and secure with a stitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the welt piece in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Stitch the underlay onto the large pocket bag, folding under the seam allowance. Stitch the small pocket bag to the welt. Place the pocket lining on one marked line, and the pocket lining with the attached welt, right side down, on the other. Stitch the pieces according to the markings. Cut the pocket opening between the lines in the middle, cutting the ends diagonally. Turn the welt and lining inside out and smooth. Secure the corners with a stitch from the wrong side. Stitch the curved edges of the lining.
- Quilt the back, front, and sleeve pieces with elastic thread according to the markings.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press the seam allowances open.
- Set in the sleeves at the armhole, matching the notches.
- Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams, press the seam allowances open.
- Insert the zipper.
- Place the synthetic padding pieces onto one of the collar pieces and secure with a stitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold the upper collar with the lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams, turn right side out, shape, and press the collar. Attach the collar to the jacket neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back lining and front lining, press the seam allowances open. Set in the sleeves at the armhole. Stitch the side seam, leaving an opening in the left side seam and the sleeve seam. Stitch the front facing and facing to the lining.
- Fold the main garment and lining right sides together and stitch along the bottom edge and the sleeve hem. Stitch along the front edge, forming a corner at the bottom. Stitch the elastic into a ring. Insert it between the main garment and the sleeve lining and sew a continuous securing stitch along the dotted lines. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Sew the opening closed.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening. Trim the corners and turn right side out. Sew the opening closed.
