CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
- FACING (front) – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE (upper part) – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE (lower part) – 2 QTY
- BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
- INSERT – 2 QTY
- From lining fabric:
- FRONT PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL (center) – 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL (side) - 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL (side) – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE (upper part) – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE (lower part) – 2 QTY
- Lining pieces are cut using the main pattern pieces, except for the center FRONT PANEL.
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, back neck FACING, upper part of the center BACK PANEL with armhole section, SEAM ALLOWANCE at the bottom edge of the center BACK PANEL, armhole of the side BACK PANEL, SEAM ALLOWANCE at the bottom edge of the side BACK PANEL, armhole of the side FRONT PANEL, SEAM ALLOWANCE at the bottom edge of the side FRONT PANEL, armhole of the center FRONT PANEL, SEAM ALLOWANCE at the bottom edge of the lower SLEEVE, SEAM ALLOWANCE at the bottom edge of the upper SLEEVE.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the respective pieces.
- Mark and stitch darts on the BACK PANEL. Press darts towards the center back. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- On the center FRONT PANEL, create and stitch pleats according to markings. The inner folds of the 3 upper pleats should point towards the side seam, and the 3 lower pleats towards the front edge. Secure the pleats at their base. Attach the INSERT to the center FRONT PANEL. Clip the seam allowances at curves, turn the piece right side out, and press. Do not press the pleats. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL.
- Sew hooks and eyes to the front edge of the FRONT PANEL according to markings. Place the front FACING onto the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch from the bottom of the FRONT PANEL upwards, stopping 5cm from the shoulder seams. Attach the bottom edges of the front FACINGS to the center FRONT PANEL precisely along the marked hemline.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Attach the back neck FACING to the front FACINGS and press open the shoulder seams of the FACING and front FACINGS.
- Stitch the jacket neckline with the FACING and front FACING. Topstitch the seam allowance onto the FACING and front FACING 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn out the front edges and back neck FACING. Press the neckline and front edges.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE.
- Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, aligning NOTCHES. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the LINING pieces, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right SLEEVE. Press the LINING.
- Attach the LINING to the front FACINGS and back neck FACING, to the bottom of the jacket, aligning LINING seams with garment seams, and to the bottom of the SLEEVE. Place 7 bar tacks at the bottom of the jacket over the seams.
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the technical opening in the SLEEVE closed.
