Jacket with Waist Inset & Belt
Introducing a tailored women's jacket featuring a sophisticated stand collar, functional patch pockets, and a distinctive wide belt cinching the waist for a defined silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for a range of occasions, offering both style and structure:
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Smart Casual Outings: Perfect for everyday wear, adding polish and a fashionable touch to a casual ensemble.
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Office & Business Casual: a professional yet stylish layer suitable for various work environments.
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Daytime Events: An elegant choice for luncheons, meetings, or social gatherings where a refined look is desired.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted jacket with shaping panels throughout the torso, designed to sit at hip length.
Neckline & Collar: Features a stylish stand collar that opens to a subtle V-neckline at the front.
Closure: Fastens at the front with buttons, providing a neat and secure closure.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves with subtle gathering at the shoulder, constructed for a tailored and comfortable arm line.
Pockets: Two functional patch pockets are strategically placed on the chest, adding both utility and design interest.
Back: Styled with a distinct back yoke and multiple vertical panels for meticulous shaping, complemented by a continuous horizontal band detail mirroring the front belt.
Waist: The waist is elegantly defined by a wide, decorative belt, designed to tie charmingly at the front.
Length: Sits at hip length, offering a contemporary and flattering proportion that pairs well with various bottoms.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires accurate panel construction, precise stand collar and patch pocket application, and handling of multiple layers including interfacing and a belted closure.
Fabric Recommendations
Select suiting fabrics that offer both structure and drape for a polished finish:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 5 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back – 1 qty
- 2. Side back – 2 qty
- 3. Back Yoke – 1 qty
- 4. Center back insert – 1 qty
- 5. Side back insert – 2 qty
- 6. Lower back – 1 qty
- 7. Side front – 2 qty
- 8. Center front – 2 qty
- 9. Center front insert – 2 qty
- 10. Side front insert – 2 qty
- 11. Lower front – 2 qty
- 12. Collar Stand – 2 qty
- 13. Front Facing – 2 qty
- 14. Back Neckline facing – 1 qty
- 15. Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- 16. Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- 17. Belt – 1 qty
- 18. Pocket – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Back insert – 1 qty
- 2. Front insert – 2 qty
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, collar stand, back neckline facing, center back insert, side back insert, center front insert, and side front insert.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, starting and ending the seam strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the collar stand right side out, and press.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back. Press seam allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the stitching lines.
- Press the upper edge of the pocket to the wrong side, fold under, and topstitch with a double seam. Press the pocket seam allowances to the wrong side, place on the front, and topstitch with a double seam.
- Attach the yoke to the back. Press seam allowances towards the yoke, serge, and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the attachment seam.
- Stitch the side seams of the upper back and front parts, press seam allowances open and serge. Stitch the side seams of the lower back and front parts, press seam allowances open and serge.
- Attach the side back insert to the center insert. Attach the side front insert to the center insert. Press seam allowances towards the center and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the stitching lines. Stitch the side seams of the inserts, press seam allowances open. Serge the belt slits on the insert according to the markings. Stitch the side seams of the back and front inserts made of lining fabric. Press seam allowances open. Serge the lower edge.
- Fold the main and lining fabric inserts along the upper edge right sides together, place the upper of the jacket between them, and stitch. Turn the inserts down. Attach the lower of the jacket to the main fabric insert, forming pleats according to the markings. Press the seam seam allowances towards the insert. Topstitch the lower serged edge of the lining insert into the attachment seam of the main fabric insert to the lower of the jacket. Stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm from the insert attachment seams.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Press seams open and serge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge line. Stitching is done from the front side. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press seam allowances open and serge. Serge the outer edge of the front facing and the back neckline facing. Attach the upper collar stand to the jacket neckline, attach the lower collar stand to the neckline of the facing and front facings. Clip the attachment seams at the curves, press open, and secure together. Attach the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams, and press. Stitch a double topstitch along the front edge and along the collar stand edge at 0.1 and 0.7 cm. Secure the front facings at the shoulder seams with a 1 cm tack.
- Stitch, press open, and serge the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch, press open, and serge the front seam of the sleeve. Stitch along the upper of the sleeve cap with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the upper of the sleeve cap between the marks.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press seam allowances and serge.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment and sleeves. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and stitch a double topstitch at 0.7 and 1.4 cm from the edge.
- On the right front, serge the buttonholes. Sew buttons on the left front accordingly.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and one short side. Turn the belt right side out, fold the seam allowances of the unstitched section inward, and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.5 cm around the perimeter of the belt.
