Double-Breasted Jacket with Flared Sleeves

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Collar Stand – QTY 2
2. COLLAR – QTY 2
3. Center BACK PANEL – QTY 2
4. SIDE PANEL (BACK) – QTY 2
5. SIDE PANEL (FRONT) – QTY 2
6. Center FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
7. Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
8. Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
9. Back neckline FACING – QTY 1
10. Welt pocket flap – QTY 2
• From LINING fabric:
1. Center BACK PANEL – QTY 2
2. SIDE PANEL (BACK) – QTY 2
3. Center FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
4. SIDE PANEL (FRONT) – QTY 2
5. Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
6. Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2

ATTENTION: FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL LINING pieces are cut without considering the width of the front facings and back neckline FACING, respectively. Before cutting the SLEEVE LINING, the upper and lower parts should be joined together.

• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Center FRONT PANEL cut with integrated front facing, collar stand, COLLAR, back neckline FACING, welt pocket flap.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the center FRONT PANEL with integrated front facing, collar stand, COLLAR, back neckline FACING, and welt pocket flap with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Place COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour. Trim, turn out COLLAR corners. Press the COLLAR. Stitch the collar stands, inserting the COLLAR between them. Turn to the right side and press.
3. Fold the welt pocket flap piece in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch along the short sides. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the welt pocket flap to the right side and press. Topstitch along the short sides and one long side.
4. Stitch the shoulder darts on the BACK PANEL. Press them towards the center BACK PANEL. Slash the waist dart depth on the FRONT PANEL in the middle, insert the welt pocket flap between the sides according to the markings, and stitch. Trim excess dart depth, press towards the center FRONT PANEL.
5. Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center FRONT PANEL. Stitch the princess seams of the BACK PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center BACK PANEL. Stitch the center back seam of the BACK PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side.
6. Fold the integrated front facing to the right side and stitch the upper corner from the edge to the center line. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the front facing to the right side, straighten, and press.
7. Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
8. Stitch the upper and lower SLEEVE parts. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the upper part. Stitch the SLEEVE seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES.
9. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the front facing and neckline FACING. Place the FACING with the garment right sides together and, inserting the COLLAR between them, stitch the neckline. On the LINING pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the front facings and FACING. Stitch the lower corner, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES. Topstitch along the front edge and COLLAR.
10. Mark and press the hem of the jacket and SLEEVES to the wrong side. Stitch the hem of the SLEEVE and garment with the LINING. Turn the jacket to the right side through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
11. On the right FRONT PANEL, mark and overcast the buttonholes. Sew on buttons according to the markings.