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#5893
#5895

Sleeveless Sundress with Inverted Pleat and Empire Waistband

Pattern #5894

A sleeveless women's sundress with a darted front bodice, a set-in band under the bust and a skirt with an inverted pleat at the centre front and centre back. One continuous bias-bound strap runs from the right front armhole through a casing at the top of the back to the left front armhole. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: silk fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Sleeveless Sundress with Inverted Pleat and Empire Waistband

A sleeveless women's sundress with a darted front bodice, a set-in band under the bust and a skirt with an inverted pleat at the centre front and centre back. One continuous bias-bound strap runs from the right front armhole through a casing at the top of the back to the left front armhole.

When To Wear

  • Hot summer days, with sandals.
  • Summer parties and holidays, with a light cardigan or shawl in the evening.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice to a raised waistline, then a skirt widening to the hem.

Length: Below the knee.

Neckline: Low, slightly curved front neckline bound with bias binding.

Sleeves: Sleeveless. Back armholes are bound with bias binding; the binding of the front armholes extends into a narrow strap that passes through the back casing, so the strap length can be adjusted at fitting.

Front: Front bodice (yoke) with darts pressed towards the centre; lower front cut on the fold with an inverted pleat at the centre.

Back: Upper back with its top edge turned under 0.7 cm and 1.3 cm to form a casing for the strap, which gathers it; lower back with darts and an inverted pleat at the centre.

Waist: Separate front and back bands under the bust, seamed between the bodice and the skirt; both seams pressed towards the band.

Closure: Invisible zip in the left side seam at waist level.

Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem double-folded 1 cm and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Bias-bound edges that continue into a strap, a back casing, inverted pleats, a set-in band and an invisible zip in a side seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Silk fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

  • Invisible zip for the left side seam
  • Bias binding (neckline, armholes and strap)

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Front Yoke – 1 piece
  • Front Waistband – 1 piece
  • Lower Front – 1 piece (cut on fold)
  • Back Yoke – 1 piece
  • Back Waistband – 1 piece
  • Lower Back – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

  1. Stitch the darts on the Front Yoke. Press the darts towards the center front. Stitch the Front Waistband to the Front Yoke. Press the seam allowance towards the waistband and overlock.
  2. On the Lower Front, fold the inverted pleat and secure it along the upper edge. Stitch the Lower Front to the Front Waistband. Press the seam allowance upwards and overlock.
  3. Stitch the Back Waistband to the Back Yoke. Press the seam allowance towards the waistband and overlock. Stitch the darts on the Lower Back. Press the darts towards the center back. Following the markings, fold the inverted pleat and secure it along the upper edge. Stitch the Lower Back to the Back Waistband. Press the seam allowance upwards and overlock.
  4. Finish the front neckline and the back armholes with bias binding.
  5. Press the upper edge of the back under first by 0.7 cm, then by another 1.3 cm, and topstitch to form a casing. Bind the right front armhole with bias binding, extending the binding to form the strap; thread the strap through the casing at the upper edge of the back, and continue binding the left front armhole. Adjust the strap length during fitting.
  6. Overlock the edges of the left side seam. Stitch the left side seam, leaving an opening for the zipper at waist level. Press the seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
  7. Stitch the right side seam. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the back.
  8. Double-fold the hem of the garment by 1 cm and topstitch.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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