Gathered Front Jeans Dress

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – QTY 2
2. FRONT PANEL – QTY 1
3. Yoke – QTY 1
4. Placket – QTY 1
5. Short strap – QTY 2
6. Long strap – QTY 2
7. Pocket bag – QTY 2
• From companion fabric:
1. Yoke – QTY 1
2. Placket – QTY 1
3. Short strap – QTY 2
4. Long strap – QTY 2
5. Pocket bag – QTY 2

Sewing Instructions

1. Fold the placket and strap pieces right sides together with the companion fabric and stitch the corner and long sides (for the short strap, stitch one short and two long sides). Turn the placket and straps right side out and press. Along the edge, sew a double topstitch at 0.1 and 0.7 cm. Make buttonholes on the placket and long strap.
2. Fold the yoke pieces right sides together and stitch the armhole and upper edge, inserting the short strap between the pieces. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the yoke right side out, and press. Along the upper edge and armhole, sew a double topstitch. Then treat the yoke as a single-layer piece.
3. Sew a basting stitch with loosely tensioned stitches 0.5 cm from the edge along the lower edge of the yoke. Gather between the NOTCHES. Stitch the yoke and FRONT PANEL. Clip the seam at the corners, press downward, and serge.
4. On the BACK PANEL, stitch the darts. Press the darts towards the center seam. Stitch, press, and serge the center seam of the BACK PANEL.
5. Cut a BIAS BINDING from the companion fabric, 9 cm wide, for finishing the upper edge of the BACK PANEL. The length of the TRIM STRIP is equal to the length of the upper edge of the BACK PANEL + 4 cm. Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Fold the TRIM STRIP with the upper edge of the BACK PANEL right sides together and stitch, inserting the long strap into the seam. Fold the TRIM STRIP to the wrong side, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES, and press.
6. Stitch the pocket bags to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, aligning the NOTCHES. Attach the pocket bag from the companion fabric to the FRONT PANEL, and from the main fabric to the BACK PANEL.
7. Serge the hem allowance separately on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Fold the hem allowance to the right side of the piece and stitch to the side seam.
8. Right side seam: Fold the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL right sides together, inserting the FRONT PANEL in the upper part between the BACK PANEL and the FACING. Stitch to the slit, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Clip the seam at the upper edge of the pocket bag. Press the section from the upper edge to the upper edge of the pocket bag towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Press open and serge the section from the upper edge of the pocket bag to the slit.
9. Left side seam. Serge the left side seam separately on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Insert the ZIPPER into the left side seam (up to the upper edge of the pocket bag). Fold the ZIPPER upward and stitch the left side seam, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Stitch the ends of the BACK PANEL FACING to the ZIPPER tape.
10. On both pockets, stitch the pocket opening from the lower edge of the pocket bag to the NOTCH. Press the pocket bags towards the FRONT PANEL and topstitch according to the markings.
11. Turn out the bottom of the pieces, straighten the corners, and topstitch the hem with a double stitch. Topstitch the BACK PANEL FACING along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
12. From the wrong side, attach the placket to the seam joining the yoke and FRONT PANEL. Adjust the length of the placket during fitting. Sew buttons onto the short strap and FRONT PANEL.