Sweetheart Neck Belted Denim Dress
An above-the-knee women's denim dress on narrow straps, with a fitted bodice cut in panels with princess seams, a sweetheart neckline finished with a topstitched band, and a waist seam carrying belt loops for a ready-made belt. The front skirt is pleated, the back skirt has darts, and a zip closes the centre back seam.
When To Wear
- Summer days, on its own with sandals or espadrilles.
- Spring and autumn over a thin T-shirt, with a denim or leather jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice to the waist seam; the skirt is shaped by pleats at the front and darts at the back and falls straight to the hem.
Length: Above the knee.
Neckline: Sweetheart upper edge finished with a two-layer band (inner layer interfaced), topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Sleeves: Sleeveless, on narrow topstitched straps sewn into the front band; the strap length is set at fitting and the ends are stitched to the inside of the back band above the princess seams.
Front: Bodice of a centre front panel, two middle front panels and two side fronts, every seam pressed towards the centre and topstitched 0.2 cm from it; lower front cut in one piece with pleats pressed towards the side seams.
Back: Princess seams on the bodice and darts on the lower back, all topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam; centre back seam.
Waist: Seam at the waist with belt loops caught in at the lower end, their top ends turned under and topstitched to the dress.
Closure: Zip in the centre back seam, the band ends stitched to the zip tape.
Finishing: Topstitching in contrast thread; hem turned under 1 cm and then 2 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A paneled bodice with princess seams and edge topstitching on denim, a two-layer interfaced neckline band, straps fitted on the body, pleats, belt loops and a centre back zip.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (inner front and back bands)
- Zip for the centre back
- Contrast thread for topstitching
- Ready-made belt
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back Placket – 4 pieces
- Middle Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Front Placket – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 1 piece
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 1 piece
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Belt-Loop – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Placket – 2 pieces
- Front Placket – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the inner Back Plackets and Front Placket.
- Fold the Belt-Loop strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges and stitch along the long side. Turn right side out, place the seam in the middle of the wrong side and press. Topstitch both long sides 0.2 cm from the edge. Cut the strip into belt loops of the required size.
- Fold each Strap lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the long edge. Turn right side out with the seam on the fold and press. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back (Middle Back to Side Back), press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the non-interfaced Back Plackets to the back, pressing the seam allowances towards the placket.
- Stitch the darts on the Lower Back and press them towards the center of the piece. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the upper and lower back together, catching the lower ends of the belt loops; press the seam allowances upwards and overlock. Fold the upper end of each belt loop under and topstitch it to the dress. Overlock the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam from the mark downwards and press the seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the Middle Fronts to the Center Front, press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the princess seams of the front (to the Side Fronts), press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the non-interfaced Front Placket to the front, pressing the seam allowances towards the placket.
- Fold the pleats on the Lower Front right sides together along the marked lines and stitch. Press the pleats towards the side edges.
- Stitch the upper and lower front together, catching the lower ends of the belt loops; press the seam allowances upwards and overlock. Fold the upper end of each belt loop under and topstitch it to the dress.
- Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the side seams of the interfaced Back and Front Plackets and overlock their lower edge. Place the inner plackets on the dress right sides together and stitch along the upper edge, catching the Straps. Clip the seam allowances, turn the inner placket to the wrong side and press. Fold the center back edges inwards and stitch them to the zipper tape. From the right side, topstitch the placket 0.2 cm from the seam, securing the inner placket at the same time.
- Try on the dress, adjust the length of the straps, overlock their ends and stitch them to the inner Back Placket (on the wrong side) above the princess seams. Press the hem up 1 cm, then another 2 cm, and topstitch. Thread the belt through the belt loops.
