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#5873
#5875

Stand Collar Ruffle Front Blouse

Pattern #5874

A women's short-sleeved blouse with a closed stand collar, a double-layer coquille ruffle set into the centre front seam and wrapped around the collar, and short puff sleeves lined with self fabric. Fitted with darts; zip in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: blouse fabrics of natural or mixed fibres: silk, viscose, blends.

Tech. Description

Stand Collar Ruffle Front Blouse

A women's short-sleeved blouse with a closed stand collar, a double-layer coquille ruffle set into the centre front seam and wrapped around the collar, and short puff sleeves lined with self fabric. Fitted with darts; zip in the left side seam.

When To Wear

  • At the office with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers.
  • Spring and summer, under an open jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped with bust darts and waist darts on the front and darts on the back.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Stand collar cut as one piece, folded in half and closed into a ring, with no opening; the inner layer is topstitched in the ditch.

Sleeves: Short set-in puff sleeves gathered at the cap near the shoulder seam. Each sleeve is lined with a second sleeve piece in the main fabric; elastic thread stitched along the lower edge draws it in.

Front: Two fronts joined by a centre seam. The coquille, two layers stitched together and lightly gathered on the inner edge, is caught into the centre seam from 1.5 cm above the hem up to the neckline, then wraps around the collar with its corner stitched into the collar seam.

Back: Centre back seam and darts.

Closure: Invisible zip in the left side seam.

Finishing: 1.5 cm hem allowance, overlocked, pressed up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A double-layer spiral ruffle set into a seam, a closed stand collar, an invisible side zip and self-lined sleeves with elastic thread.

Fabric Recommendations

Blouse fabrics of natural or mixed fibres: silk, viscose, blends.

Additional Supplies

  • Invisible zip
  • Elastic thread

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 4 pieces (2 of them are the sleeve lining, cut from the main fabric)
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Coquille – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

  1. Place the two Coquille pieces right sides together and, before cutting them along the inner line, stitch along the outer contour with a 0.7 cm seam. Cut the Coquille along the marked line and clip the seam allowances. Stitch the section from the inner corner of the Coquille to the mark, clip the seam allowance near the mark, turn the Coquille right side out and press. On the right side, run a loose-tension stitch along the inner contour and gather slightly.
  2. Stitch the darts on the front. Press the waist darts towards the center of the front, and the bust darts upwards.
  3. Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam to the left side and serge.
  4. Stitch the Coquille to the center front edge of the right Front as follows: match the marks on the Coquille and the center front edge. Measure 1.5 cm up from the bottom edge of the Front and align the bottom corner of the Coquille with this point. Align the edges and stitch the Coquille in place. Stitch the left and right Fronts together, press the seam towards the left side and serge.
  5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, leaving an opening for the zipper in the left side seam. Press the left seam open, press the remaining seams towards the back and serge. Insert the zipper into the left side seam.
  6. Press the Collar in half lengthwise, then unfold it, fold it into a ring right sides together and stitch the ends. Press and serge the seam. Turn the collar right side out and press. Stitch the outer layer of the collar to the neckline, fold under the inner edge and topstitch it in the ditch of the collar seam. Wrap the Coquille around the collar and stitch its upper corner into the collar seam from the wrong side.
  7. Stitch, press and serge the underarm seams of the sleeves and sleeve linings. Place the sleeve lining inside the sleeve right sides together and stitch the pieces along the bottom edge. Press the seam towards the lining. Along the lining attachment seam between the marks, stitch with elastic thread, placing the elastic on the wrong side. Turn the pieces right side out, align at the cap and secure with a stitch. Then treat the sleeve as a single-layer piece. Between the notches, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather near the shoulder seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press the seam towards the back and front.
  8. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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