Fitted Skirt with Gathered Sides
A women's fitted knee-length skirt with panel seams at the front and back. The side panels are gathered into the panel seams over the hips, and a narrow strip is topstitched along each seam. Fully lined, with a back slit.
When To Wear
- To the office with blouses, fine knits and jackets.
- In autumn, winter and spring, with tights and closed shoes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, straight skirt with a centre front panel, two centre back pieces and gathered side panels.
Length: To the knee, with a 3 cm hem finished by blind stitch.
Front: One-piece centre front panel; vertical panel seams with gathers on the side panels along the upper part of the seam.
Closure: Invisible zipper in the centre back seam; the waistband fastens with a button and buttonhole.
Back: Centre back seam with a slit at the hem; gathered side panels as on the front.
Waist: Straight interfaced waistband, folded in half.
Finishing: Four separate strips, one per panel seam, sewn on with a 0.7 cm seam and topstitched along their folded edge onto the centre panels.
Lining: Full lining cut from the main pieces, attached at the waist and the zipper, hem turned up 1.5 cm, edges sewn to the sides of the slit.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Gathers eased into panel seams, applied strips along curved seams, an invisible zipper and a lining finished around a back slit.
Fabric Recommendations
Fine wool fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (waistband)
- 1 invisible zipper
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front skirt half – 1 piece
- Side (front) – 2 pieces
- Side (back) – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Trim strip – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From lining:
- Side (back) – 2 pieces
- Side (front) – 2 pieces
- Front – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Waistband. The front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces.
Sewing Instructions
- On the trim strip pieces, press one long side 1 cm inwards. Stitch the unpressed long edge of the trim strip to the shaped edge of the front and back, placing the trim strip right side up on the right side of the piece. Seam allowance 0.7 cm. The length of the trim strip is slightly longer than the length of the shaped edges. Trim excess trim strip at the end of the work before attaching the waistband.
- Along the shaped edges of the side back and front, sew a basting stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather.
- Stitch the front and back shaped edges. Press the seam allowances towards the center of the front and center of the back respectively and serge. Topstitch the pressed edge of the trim strip onto the back and front.
- Serge the center edges of the back. Stitch the pieces between the notches. Press the seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch, serge, and press the lining pieces. Along the center edge of the lining, stitch only the short section between the notches. Press the seam allowance open and serge. Stitch the seam allowances for the closure to the zipper tape. Secure the lining to the garment along the upper edge.
- Reinforce the waistband with fusible interfacing. Press the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the outer side of the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt, simultaneously finishing the waistband corners. Fold the inner edge of the waistband inwards and topstitch into the waistband attachment seam. Serge the buttonhole and sew on the button.
- Serge the lower edge of the skirt on the main garment. Fold, press, and topstitch onto the skirt with a blind stitch. Serge the lower edge of the lining, fold 1.5 cm and topstitch.
- Turn the skirt inside out. Secure the main fabric pieces and lining along the center seam, shifting the lining fabric slightly upwards. Fold the lining edges and sew them to the sides of the slit.
