Balloon Skirt with Pleats, Hip Yoke and Tie Belt
A women's above-the-knee balloon skirt on a wide, interfaced hip yoke. Box pleats are stitched down below the yoke, and the hem is gathered and joined to a shorter lining to form the balloon shape. A tie belt runs through loops on the yoke and ties in a bow.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer with fitted blouses, tops and light knits tucked in.
- For daytime outings and office days with a fitted jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the yoke, full through the skirt, drawn in at the hem.
Length: Above the knee.
Closure: The right front yoke overlaps the left at the centre front and fastens with buttons and buttonholes.
Waist: Wide shaped yoke cut double (outer and inner), the outer yoke interfaced, topstitched 0.7 cm from the upper edge, with belt loops all round.
Skirt: Cut in two pieces on the fold, joined at the side seams; box pleats stitched down along marked lines with two parallel rows of stitching each.
Back: Same yoke and stitched-down box pleats as the front, with no centre back seam.
Finishing: Tie belt topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge; the gathered skirt hem is stitched to the lining hem and turned through an opening in the left side seam of the lining.
Lining: Full lining in two pieces, sewn to the yoke at the top and to the gathered hem at the bottom.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. An overlapping buttoned yoke, stitched-down box pleats and a balloon hem joined to the lining by bagging out.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight suiting or dress fabrics from natural or synthetic fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (outer yokes)
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Skirt - 2 pieces on fold
- 2. Back Yoke - 2 pieces
- 3. Right Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 4. Left Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 4. Belt Loop - 1 piece
- 5. Waistband - 1 piece
- From lining:
- 1. Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 2. Right Front Yoke – 1 piece
- 3. Left Front Yoke – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the outer skirt yokes.
- Stitch the outer and inner yoke pieces together along the side seam. Press the seam: on the outer yoke – towards the front, on the inner yoke – towards the back. Fold the inner and outer yoke pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper and front edges strictly up to the skirt attachment seam allowances. Clip the seam allowances at the beginning and end of the stitching. Turn right side out and press.
- Topstitch along the upper edge of the yoke 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the side edges of the skirt. Finish the seams and press towards the back. On the skirt piece, create box pleats and stitch along the marked lines. Stitch 2 parallel reinforcing stitches along the pleat.
- Stitch the side seams of the lining, leaving an opening for turning 15-20 cm long in the left side seam. Press the seams towards the back.
- Overlap the right yoke onto the left, aligning the centers of the front parts, and secure with a stitch along the seam allowances. Fold the lining and skirt right sides together, insert the yoke between them, and stitch along the upper edge of the skirt. Turn the skirt right side out. Press the seam towards the yoke.
- Along the lower edge of the skirt, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the edge to the length of the LINING's lower edge, distributing the gathers evenly. Through the opening in the left side seam, turn the skirt to the wrong side and stitch the lower edges. Turn the skirt right side out. Stitch the opening in the left side seam.
- Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise and stitch, leaving an opening for subsequent turning. Turn the Waistband right side out and press. Close the opening. Topstitch along the edge of the Waistband 0.1 cm from the edge.
- Fold the Belt Loop in half lengthwise, right side in, align the edges and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold, and press. Cut the belt loops to size and topstitch them onto the yokes according to the markings.
- Mark and finish buttonholes and sew on buttons. Insert the Waistband.
