Puffed Sleeve Mock Wrap Pleated Dress with Contrast Hem

Name: Puffed Sleeve Mock Wrap Pleated Dress with Contrast Hem
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5805
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5805

A knee-length women's dress in knit fabric with a crossover V-neck bodice, a contrast band under the bust and a pleated front skirt. Diagonal contrast strips run along the bodice fronts, the short puffed sleeves end in contrast cuffs, and the hem carries a band of two contrast strips. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric with medium or low stretch, from natural or blended fibres, plus knit fabric in a contrasting colour for the trims.

Tech. Description

Puffed Sleeve Mock Wrap Dress

When To Wear

Daytime events and family celebrations in spring and summer, with heeled sandals or court shoes.
Office days, under a cardigan or a short jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a raised seam under the bust; the skirt widens towards the hem.

Length: About knee length; hem turned up and topstitched.

Neckline: V-neck formed by the crossover fronts, bound with folded knit tape topstitched along the fold.

Front: Each front bodice is made of a pleated middle front, a diagonal contrast trim strip and a side front. The right front laps over the left and both are stitched together at the lower edge, so the crossover is fixed and does not open.

Waist: Contrast inset band under the bust on the front and on the back.

Skirt: Lower front cut on the fold with pleats laid along the markings; plain lower back. At the hem, two contrast strips are joined one under the other on the front and on the back.

Sleeves: Short set-in puffed sleeves gathered at the cap and at the lower edge into a folded contrast cuff.

Back: Upper back in two pieces with a centre back seam, inset band, lower back.

Closure: Invisible zip, 20–25 cm, in the left side seam.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch or on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker; hem topstitched with a twin needle.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Many pieced contrast sections to match at the seams, pleats, a fixed crossover bodice, gathered sleeves with cuffs and an invisible zip in a knit side seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with medium or low stretch, from natural or blended fibres, plus knit fabric in a contrasting colour for the trims.

Additional Supplies

Contrast knit fabric (insets, trim strips, cuffs, hem strips)
Knit tape (or bias binding), 4 cm wide, for the neckline
Invisible zip, 20–25 cm

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Upper Back – 2 pieces
Lower Back – 1 piece
Middle Front – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
Sleeve – 2 pieces

From contrasting fabric:

Back Inset – 1 piece
Front Inset – 1 piece
Front Trimming – 2 pieces
Cuff – 2 pieces
Lower Back Trimming 1 – 1 piece
Lower Back Trimming 2 – 1 piece
Lower Front Trimming 1 – 1 piece
Lower Front Trimming 2 – 1 piece

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics should be stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

Stitch the center back seam of the Upper Back, press seam allowances to the left and serge.
Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Press the knit tape (or bias binding) in half lengthwise, right side out. Place it on the right side of the back and front neckline, raw edges matching, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold.
On the Middle Front pieces, lay and secure the pleats. Attach the Front Trimming to the Middle Front, press seam allowances towards the trimming, and serge. Attach the Side Front to the trimming, press seam allowances towards the trim strip, and serge.
Overlap the right front over the left, secure at the lower edge, and then treat as one piece.
Attach the Back Inset to the Upper Back, press seam allowances downwards and serge. Attach the Lower Back to the inset, press seam allowances towards the inset and serge.
Attach Lower Back Trimming 1 to the Lower Back, press seam allowances and serge. Attach Lower Back Trimming 2 to Lower Back Trimming 1, press seam allowances and serge.
Attach the Front Inset to the bodice front, press seam allowances downwards and serge. Lay the pleats on the Lower Front according to the markings, attach the Lower Front to the inset, press seam allowances towards the inset and serge.
Attach Lower Front Trimming 1 to the Lower Front, press seam allowances and serge. Attach Lower Front Trimming 2 to Lower Front Trimming 1, press seam allowances and serge.
Stitch the right side seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Serge the seam allowances of the left side seam on the back and front, stitch the left side seam, inserting the invisible zipper, and press open.
Stitch the sleeve seams, press seam allowances and serge. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the cuff length. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press in half lengthwise right side out, and attach to the lower edge of the sleeve. Press seam allowances and serge.
Along the sleeve cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches. Serge and press the seams.
Serge the hem allowance of the garment, fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.