Hooded Wrap Poncho with Pockets
A women's hip-length poncho in knit fabric, with wide cape-like sleeves set in by raglan-style seams, two rounded fronts that overlap and are stitched together, single-welt pockets and a close-fitting hood.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a fitted top or turtleneck with slim trousers or jeans.
- As a warm layer over the shoulders on cool evenings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Wide and flared from the neck, falling in a circle over the arms.
Length: To the hip.
Collar: Hood made of a front band that frames the face and two back pieces joined by a centre seam. The face opening is finished with a knit bias binding 6 cm wide, folded in half and topstitched along the fold.
Sleeves: Wide, in a front and a back part, joined to the front and back by seams running from the neck; the sleeve seam is sewn together with the side seam.
Front: Two fronts with rounded hems; the right front overlaps the left and the two are stitched together, so the poncho is pulled on over the head.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts, with interfaced welts and two-piece pocket bags.
Back: Centre back seam.
Finishing: Hems turned and topstitched with a twin needle to keep the stretch.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets in knit fabric, a hood with a bound face opening, and joining overlapping fronts.
Fabric Recommendations
Knit fabric with low to medium stretch, of natural or blended fibres (jersey).
Additional Supplies
- Fusible knit interfacing (welts, pocket area)
- Bias binding 6 cm wide for the hood opening
- Twin needle
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Front hood – 1 piece
- Back hood – 2 pieces
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch the pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the welt with fusible interfacing, fold it in half lengthwise with the right side out, and press. Fuse the pocket area with fusible interfacing. Mark a longitudinal line on the welt, defining the finished width of the welt. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Place the welt with the pocket bag on the right side of the front, face down, aligning the pocket marking line and the line on the welt. Stitch the welt. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts to the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners.
- Stitch the center back seam of the back. Serge and press the seam open. Serge the bottom edge of the back and front. On the front pieces, fold up the bottom edge and topstitch with a twin needle, stopping 15-20 cm before the side seam.
- Overlap the right front over the left and secure the pieces together. Then treat as one piece.
- Stitch the front sleeve to the front, make a notch near the mark, serge and press towards the front. Stitch the back sleeve to the back, make a notch near the mark, serge and press towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front. Serge and press the seams towards the back.
- Stitch the side seams of the back and front, simultaneously stitching the sleeve seams. Serge and press the seams towards the back.
- Stitch the back hood parts to the front. Serge and press the seams towards the front. Stitch the center seam of the hood. Serge and press the seam. Cut a bias binding equal to the hood neckline + 2 cm. Stitch the bias binding into a loop, fold it in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the strip on the raw edge of the hood from the right side and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Set the hood into the neckline. Serge and press the seam.
- Serge the bottom edge of the sleeve. Fold to the wrong side, press and topstitch. Fold up the bottom edge of the back. Topstitch the bottom hem with a twin needle. Press the seam.
