Fitted Blouse Asymmetric Gathered Front
A women's fitted long-sleeved blouse with an asymmetric front: the gathered right front is joined to the darted left front through a curved placket set with six decorative buttons. It has a shirt collar on a stand over a V-neckline and opens with a zip in the left side seam.
When To Wear
- For the office with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers.
- Under a jacket or on its own in autumn and spring.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by side front panels seamed from the armholes, a bust dart on the left front and darts on the back.
Length: Hip length, hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.
Collar: Pointed shirt collar set between two stand pieces; upper collar and inner stand interfaced, stand and collar topstitched. The neckline below it is a V.
Front: The right front is gathered between marks along its edge and carries the large two-layer placket, which curves from the neckline across the front and runs down to the hem. The left front is caught between the layers of this placket; a small placket with a concave edge finishes the left neckline.
Closure: Zip in the lower part of the left side seam. The six front buttons are decorative.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with an eased cap, the sleeve seam left open below a notch; interfaced cuffs fastened with one button each.
Back: Centre back seam and two darts pressed towards it.
Finishing: Shoulder, right side and side front seams overlocked and pressed towards the back and side.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. An asymmetric front assembled through two-part shaped plackets with gathers, a collar on a stand, a side-seam zip and cuffs with openings.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabric of natural or blended fibres: cotton, viscose, polyester.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, cuffs, upper collar, inner stand)
- 8 buttons
- Zip for the left side seam
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Smaller Placket – 2 pieces
- Bigger Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Smaller Placket – 1 piece
- Bigger Placket – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the plackets, the Cuffs, the upper Collar, and the inner Stand Collar.
- Place the upper Collar and under Collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, match the notches, and stitch, stitching the ends of the stand at the same time. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked neckline seam line of the stand. Turn the collar and stand right side out and press.
- Stitch the darts on the Back. Press the darts towards the center back. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press. Stitch the bust dart on the Left Front. Press the dart upwards. On the Right Front, between the marks along the front edge, sew a line of loose-tension stitches and draw up the gathers.
- Place the two Smaller Placket pieces right sides together and stitch along the concave edge. Turn the placket right side out and press. Attach the outer Smaller Placket piece to the Left Front. Press the seam towards the placket. Turn under the inner Smaller Placket piece and topstitch it in the ditch of the attaching seam.
- Attach the outer Bigger Placket piece to the Right Front. Place the Bigger Placket pieces right sides together along the outer edge. Insert the Left Front between the placket pieces and stitch. Turn the inner Bigger Placket to the wrong side and press. Turn under the raw edge of the inner Bigger Placket and topstitch it in the ditch of the attaching seam.
- Attach the Side Front pieces to the fronts. Overlock the seams and press towards the side.
- Stitch the shoulder seams and the right side seam. Overlock the seams and press towards the back. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the notch. Press the seam open and overlock. Insert the zipper.
- Sew the outer Stand Collar with the collar to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner Stand Collar and topstitch it in the ditch of the attaching seam. Topstitch along the stand and collar.
- Stitch the sleeve seams up to the notch, overlock, and press open. Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap.
- Fold the Cuffs in half and stitch the short ends and the section up to the notch. Clip the seam allowance at the notch. Turn the Cuffs right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Turn under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch it in the ditch of the attaching seam.
- Overlock the hem of the blouse, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the Cuffs and sew on the buttons. Sew the decorative buttons on the front placket.
