Silk Hoodie With Raglan Sleeves & Kangaroo Pocket
A women's hip-length pullover hoodie in woven fabric, with two-piece raglan sleeves, a self-lined hood, a bias-bound slit at the centre front and a kangaroo patch pocket.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear with jeans, trousers or joggers.
- Spring, summer and early autumn evenings, as a light top layer.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose, straight fit, with bust darts on the front pressed upwards.
Length: Hip length, straight hem turned up and topstitched.
Hood: Cut as an outer hood and a hood lining, each from two pieces joined with a centre seam; the outer centre seam is topstitched on both sides 0.7 cm from the seam, and the front edge of the hood is topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge. The lining is turned under and stitched over the neckline seam, so no raw edges show inside.
Front: One piece with a slit at the centre front below the hood, bound with a bias strip cut from the main fabric.
Sleeves: Raglan, each cut in two parts (front and back) with a seam running along the top of the arm. Raglan seams pressed open and topstitched on both sides; underarm seams and side seams stitched in one pass. Straight hems turned up and topstitched.
Pockets: One kangaroo patch pocket on the lower front with slanted side openings; all edges double-topstitched 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge. The lower edge is caught into the hem.
Back: One piece, no centre back seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Beginner. Straight seams and a patch pocket; the bias-bound slit and the self-lined hood need careful stitching.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- No notions are needed; the bias strip for the slit (4 cm wide, twice the slit length) is cut from the main fabric.
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 1 piece
- Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Patch Pocket – 1 piece
- Hood – 4 pieces
- Bias strip for the front slit, 4 cm wide and twice the slit length – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the darts on the Front. Press the darts upwards.
- Cut a bias strip from the main fabric, 4 cm wide and twice the length of the front slit. Press the strip in half lengthwise, unfold it and press both long edges to the center line. Cut the slit on the Front and bind it with the prepared bias binding.
- Overlock all edges of the Patch Pocket except the bottom one. Press the pocket opening edges to the wrong side and topstitch with a double row of stitching 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge. Press the top and side edges to the wrong side, place the pocket on the Front at the markings and topstitch with a double row of stitching 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the Back Sleeves to the Back. Stitch the Front Sleeves to the Front. Press the seam allowances open and topstitch on both sides of the seam.
- Stitch the upper (shoulder) seams of the sleeves. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the underarm sleeve seams and side seams in one continuous seam. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the Hood pieces in pairs along the center seam. On the outer hood, press the seam open and topstitch on both sides 0.7 cm from the seam. On the hood lining, press the seam allowances open. Place the two hoods right sides together and stitch along the front edge, starting and ending exactly at the marked neckline seam line. Turn the hood right side out, straighten the seam and press.
- Stitch the outer hood to the neckline, fold under the lower open edge of the hood lining and topstitch it over the attachment seam. Topstitch along the front edge of the hood 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Press the hem allowances of the hoodie and sleeves to the wrong side, turn the raw edge under by 0.5 cm and topstitch.
