High Waist Wide Leg Trousers with Front Buttons
Women's high-waisted wide-leg jeans in stretch denim with front princess seams and a button front: two rows of four buttons along the front seams. Single-welt front pockets, patch back pockets and double topstitching throughout.
When To Wear
- Every day with a tucked-in shirt, T-shirt or fitted knit top that leaves the button front visible.
- In autumn and spring with a short jacket and heeled boots or shoes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: High waist, close fit over the hips, wide legs to the hem.
Length: Full length; 5 cm hem with double topstitching.
Waist: No separate waistband: the top is a shaped band (front and back facing pieces) stitched to the trousers and topstitched, finished inside with inner facings.
Front: Each front is cut in two parts, centre and side, joined by a princess seam that runs the full length of the leg, with double topstitching at 0.1 and 0.7 cm.
Closure: Button closure on the right front, with buttonholes in the centre panel and buttons on the fly shield; eight buttons in two vertical rows of four.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the side fronts below the waist band; patch pockets on the back with a 3 cm turned-down top edge.
Back: Centre back seam, top band, two patch pockets.
Finishing: Double topstitching at 0.1 and 0.7 cm along the band seams, princess seams, closure edges and top edge.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, a button closure with a cut-on facing and fly shield, panel seams and lots of parallel double topstitching on denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim with stretch fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (waist facings, inner facings, welts, fly shield, cut-on facings of the centre fronts)
- 1 zip
- 8 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 3. Back – 2 pieces
- 4. Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 5. Back Facing – 2 pieces
- 6. Left Inner Facing – 1 piece
- 7. Right Inner Facing – 1 piece
- 8. Fly Shield – 1 piece
- 9. Back Pocket – 2 pieces
- 10. Welt – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, back facing, inner facings, welt, fly shield, one-piece facings of the center front panels.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the back facing, front facing, inner facings, welts, fly shield, and one-piece facings of the center front panels with fusible interfacing.
- Press the upper seam allowance of the back pocket to the wrong side, fold under, and topstitch. Serge the pocket edges, press the seam allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to the markings on the back and topstitch.
- Cut a pocket stay from the main fabric, equal to the pocket opening length plus 1.5 – 2.0 cm on each side, and 4 cm wide. Mark the pocket placement on the side front panels. Fuse the pocket opening. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the pocket stay to the front along the upper pocket marking line. End the stitching lines at the short marking lines. Check the accuracy of the welt and pocket stay stitching from the wrong side (the stitching lines should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and pocket stay through the opening to the wrong side, adjust the ends of the welt so that the fold meets the pocket stay stitching line. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch the welt to the pocket stay in the stitching line. Serge the perimeter edges of the pocket stay together with the facing edges.
- Stitch the center seam of the back, serge the seam allowances. Stitch the back facing to the back pant. Press the seam allowances towards the facing. Stitch the front facing to the front side pant. Press the seam allowances towards the facing and topstitch a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm along the seam, stopping 3.0 – 4.0 cm before the side seam.
- Processing the left front pant. Serge the relief edges of the center and side parts. Serge the buttonholes on the center, not catching the one-piece seam allowance for the closure. Stitch the panel seam. Press the seam allowances towards the center and topstitch a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm along the seam. Topstitch a double decorative-securing stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm along the edge of the one-piece seam allowance for the closure.
- Processing the right front pant. Serge the relief edges of the center and side parts. Stitch the panel seam from the fly down. Press the seam allowances towards the center and topstitch a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm along the seam. Press the one-piece closure seam allowance to the wrong side. Serge one of the short sides of the fly shield, press it in half lengthwise, right side out. Place the fly shield with the side front in the closure area (serged side at the bottom) and stitch the outer side. Press the seam allowance towards the fly shield.
- Stitch the center seam of the front panels, serge the seam allowances. Stitch the side seams of the pants, press open and serge the seam allowances. Stitch the inseams of the pants, press open and serge the seam allowances. Topstitch a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm along the back yoke stitching line, extending onto the front pant.
- Stitch the left and right inner facings to the back facing, serge the outer edge. Place the facing with the upper edge of the pants, right sides together. Turn the fly shield and the one-piece closure seam allowance to the right side and stitch the short sides of the facing to them. Finish the upper edge simultaneously with the upper corners of the fly shield and the one-piece closure seam allowance. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the facing out and press. Topstitch a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm along the upper edge. Topstitch a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm along the right edge of the closure. Fold the longitudinal seam allowance of the one-piece closure inwards and topstitch a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the fold. Fold the longitudinal seam allowance of the inner side of the fly shield and topstitch into the stitching line. Overlap the right side of the closure onto the left, aligning the finished closure line, and topstitch the center to the fly shield with a double stitch. Topstitch the serged edge of the facing into the stitching line.
- Serge the hem allowance, press to the wrong side, and topstitch with a double decorative stitch.
- On the right center pant, serge the buttonholes, and sew buttons onto the fly shield.
