Sport Style Denim Jacket with Zipped Front and Utility Pockets

Sport Style Denim Jacket with Zipped Front and Utility Pockets

A women's cropped denim jacket with a centre front separating zip, a stand collar and a hem band that each fasten with a button over a shaped tab, curved panel seams front and back, flap patch pockets, and sleeves with a topstitched inset strip and buttoned cuffs. Unlined, with double topstitching throughout.

When To Wear

• Spring and autumn over T-shirts and dresses.
• Everyday wear with jeans, chinos or a skirt.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by curved panel seams from the armholes on the front and back.

Length: Cropped, ending in a hem band at about the waist.

Collar: Interfaced stand collar with a button extension and a shaped end, fastened with one button at the front and topstitched.

Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, set between the front edges and faced with interfaced front facings tacked to the shoulder seams.

Pockets: Two patch pockets on the lower fronts with a turned and topstitched top edge; flaps with rounded corners stitched above them, turned down and fastened with one button each. Pockets and flaps double-topstitched 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge.

Sleeves: Set-in sleeves with an inset strip joined to the sleeve and double-topstitched; the seam is left open at the lower end as a slit. Interfaced cuffs with a shaped end and one button each.

Back: Centre back panel and two side backs joined with curved seams, topstitched 0.1 cm from the seam.

Waist: Interfaced hem band made of a back belt and right and left front parts, folded in half and topstitched all round; it closes with a shaped tab and a button at the centre front.

Finishing: Armhole seams pressed towards the body and double-topstitched 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam; shoulder and side seams pressed towards the back and overlocked.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A faced separating zip, flap pockets, a sleeve slit built into an inset seam, cuffs and a buttoned hem band, all with even double topstitching on heavy fabric.

Fabric Recommendations

Denim.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (front facings, stand collar, cuffs, hem band)
• Separating zip
• 6 buttons

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Center Back – 1 piece
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Back Waistband (marked on pattern as "Back Belt") – 1 piece
4. Side Front Panel – 2 pieces
5. Center Front Panel – 2 pieces
6. Right Front Waistband – 1 piece
7. Left Front Waistband – 1 piece
8. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
9. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
10. Pocket – 2 pieces
11. Flap – 4 pieces
12. Sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Sleeve Inset – 2 pieces
14. Cuff – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

1. Center Front Facing
2. Stand Collar
3. Cuffs - 2 pieces
4. Back Waistband
5. Right Front Waistband
6. Left Front Waistband

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric, print and lay out the paper patterns according to your fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine required yardage.

Remember to account for paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay close attention to all notches — they must match precisely to ensure correct construction and fit.

Decorative double topstitching is an essential visual feature of this design and should be executed consistently throughout the garment.

Assembly Instructions

1. Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Stand Collar, Cuff, Back Waistband, Right Front Waistband, and Left Front Waistband.

2. Stand Collar

Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch the closure allowance, outer contour, and shaped end.

Trim seam allowances at the corners and clip at the curves.

Turn the stand collar right side out and press.

3. Front and Back Panels

Stitch the princess seams of the Center Front Panel and Side Front Panel, and of the Center Back and Side Back.

Press seam allowances toward the center and overlock.

Topstitch at 0.1 cm from the seams.

4. Zipper

Place the front pieces right sides together and align the edges, measure the front edge length.

Attach the zipper to the front edge.

Turn the front edge allowances inward along the zipper area and press.

5. Patch Pockets

Press the upper seam allowance of the Pocket to the wrong side, turn under and topstitch.

Press the side and lower seam allowances of the pocket to the wrong side.

Place the pockets onto the front according to the markings.

Topstitch the patch pockets with double topstitching at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge.

6. Flaps

Place the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour on three sides.

Clip seam allowances at the curves, turn the flap right side out.

Shape the seams and press.

Topstitch the flap with double topstitching at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge.

Overlock the free edge of the flap.

Work a buttonhole.

Attach the flap to the front, turn downward and topstitch with double stitching at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.

Sew the button onto the pocket according to the buttonhole placement.

7. Front Facing

Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facing.

Place the facing onto the front right sides together and stitch along the front edge.

Stitch from the front side.

Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams, and press.

8. Shoulder and Side Seams

Stitch the shoulder and side seams.

Press the shoulder and side seams toward the Back and overlock.

9. Collar Attachment

Attach the outer Stand Collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner stand collar and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

Topstitch along the stand collar.

Secure the Center Front Facing to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bartack.

10. Waistband

Attach the Right Front Waistband and Left Front Waistband to the Back Waistband.

Press the seams open.

Fold the waistband lengthwise at the center, right side outward, and press.

Attach the outer waistband to the lower edge of the jacket, press the seam allowance toward the waistband.

11. Waistband Finish

Stitch the waistband corners.

Trim excess fabric at the corners, turn right side out.

Turn under the open edge of the inner waistband and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

Topstitch around the waistband perimeter.

12. Sleeve Inset

Attach the Sleeve Inset to the Sleeve, leaving the slit area unstitched.

Clip seam allowances at the marking, press toward the inset, pressing the slit area open.

Topstitch along the seam with double stitching at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.

13. Sleeve Seam

Stitch and overlock the sleeve seam.

14. Cuffs

Fold the Cuff lengthwise at the center, right sides together, and stitch the shaped end and closure allowance.

Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and press.

15. Attaching Cuffs

Attach the outer side of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve.

Turn under the upper edge of the inner cuff and topstitch in the seam of attachment.

Topstitch around the cuff contour.

16. Sleeves

Set the sleeves into the armholes.

Press seam allowances toward the armhole, overlock, and topstitch with double stitching at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the sleeve attachment seam.

17. Closures

Work buttonholes on the Stand Collar, waistband, and sleeve cuffs.

Sew the buttons accordingly.