Fitted Puffed Sleeve Blouse Pointed Collar
A women's fitted button-front blouse with a pointed shirt collar on a stand, a curved front yoke and a straight back yoke, vertical panel seams front and back, and short puffed sleeves gathered into buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
- Office wear in spring and summer, tucked into a pencil skirt or worn over high-waisted trousers.
- Daytime events, under a sleeveless dress or pinafore.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped entirely by seams with no darts.
Length: Hip length, narrow hem (1.5 cm allowance) turned under twice and topstitched.
Collar: Shirt collar with pointed ends on a separate stand; upper collar and outer stand interfaced. The stand fastens with one button.
Front: Each front made of centre, middle and side panels joined with two vertical seams, below a yoke with a curved lower edge. Separate interfaced button placket folded in half and attached to the front edge.
Closure: Buttons and buttonholes on the placket and collar stand, buttonholes on the right side.
Sleeves: Short puffed set-in sleeves, gathered at the cap and at the lower edge into narrow interfaced cuffs with a button extension, fastened with one button each.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams, below a straight back yoke cut in one piece.
Finishing: All seams overlocked; yoke seams pressed onto the yokes. Decorative braid can be inserted into the seams as an option.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many panel seams to match, a curved yoke seam, a collar on a stand, a separate placket and gathered sleeves set into cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, upper collar, outer stand, cuffs)
- 7 buttons
- Decorative braid for the seams (optional)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Placket, upper Collar, outer Stand Collar, Cuff.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Plackets, the upper Collar, the outer Stand Collar, and the Cuffs.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim the corners and turn the collar right side out. Stitch the Stand Collar pieces together, inserting the collar between them. Turn right side out, press the finished collar.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowances to the left side and overlock. Attach the Back Yoke to the back, press seam allowances onto the yoke and overlock.
- Attach the Side Front to the Middle Front. Press the seam allowances towards the Middle Front and overlock. Attach the Middle Front to the Center Front. Press the seam allowances towards the Center Front and overlock. Attach the Front Yoke to the front, press seam allowances onto the yoke and overlock.
- Fold the Plackets in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the outer half of the placket to the front edge, press seam allowances onto the placket. Turn the free long edge of the inner half under and topstitch it in the ditch of the attaching seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the blouse. Press seams towards the back and overlock.
- Sew the inner stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the outer stand and topstitch it in the ditch of the attaching seam.
- Stitch and overlock the sleeve seams. Along the sleeve cap and lower edge, sew a row of loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the cap and lower edge.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the short sides and the extension for the closure. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the cuff right side out. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam. Mark and make the buttonholes, sew on the buttons.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, overlock seam allowances.
- Fold the seam allowance of the garment's lower edge to the wrong side, fold inwards and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right placket and collar stand, and sew buttons on the left placket and collar stand.
- Tip: If desired, decorative braid can be inserted into the seams as shown in the picture or technical drawing.
