Fitted V-Neck Jacket with Pleated Cuffs

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
4. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
5. Front Facing – 2 QTY
6. Back Neck FACING – 1 QTY
7. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
8. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
9. CUFF – 2 QTY
10. Welt – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
4. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
5. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
6. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY

ATTENTION: BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces from LINING fabric are cut without considering the width of the back neck FACING and front facing respectively.

FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, back neck FACING, center FRONT PANEL, side FRONT PANEL, welt.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front facing, back neck FACING, center FRONT PANEL, and side FRONT PANEL.
2. Stitch the princess seam on the FRONT PANEL. Press the princess seam open on the FRONT PANEL.
3. Cut a pocket underlay from the main fabric, equal to the pocket opening length plus 1.5 – 2.0 cm on each side, and 4 cm wide. Mark the position of the upper pockets. Fuse the pocket opening. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the welt to the FRONT PANEL along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the pocket underlay to the FRONT PANEL along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should stop at the short marking lines. Check the accuracy of the welt and underlay attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and underlay to the wrong side through the opening, adjusting the ends of the welt so that the fold meets the underlay attachment seam. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch the welt to the underlay in the attachment seam.
4. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
5. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck FACING and front facing.
6. Apply an additional FUSIBLE INTERFACING strip along the neckline edge of the FRONT PANEL. Place the front facing with the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge, FRONT PANEL neckline, and BACK PANEL neckline. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side, slightly easing the FRONT PANEL neckline of the jacket. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge on the closure section to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam (stopping 3 cm before the bottom corner). Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
7. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Topstitch decorative TRIM STRIP along the bottom of the SLEEVE, placing it parallel to the lower SEAM ALLOWANCE and not extending beyond it. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
8. Stitch the CUFF into a loop. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and overcast. Overcast the lower edge of the CUFF, press the lower edge SEAM ALLOWANCE to the wrong side and secure with FUSIBLE INTERFACING web. Form and press the pleats according to the markings. Place the CUFF with the lower edge of the SLEEVE, right sides together, and stitch. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the SLEEVE.
9. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Attach shoulder pads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening for turning in the center back seam.
11. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neck FACING. Stitch the bottom corner. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES on curves, trim corners. Mark and press the bottom of the garment to the wrong side. Finish the bottom of the garment with the LINING.
12. Stitch the lower edge SEAM ALLOWANCE of the SLEEVE LINING into the CUFF attachment seam. Turn the jacket to the right side. Stitch the technological opening closed.
13. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.