Long Sleeve Button-Fly Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
3. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
4. FACING – 2 QTY
5. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Fly front fastening LINING – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, back neckline FACING, fly front fastening LINING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING pieces, back neckline FACING, and one fly front fastening LINING.
2. Trim the one-piece flap along the marked line from the LEFT FACING and LEFT SLEEVE.
3. Stitch the SLEEVE to the BACK PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the SLEEVE, serge and topstitch.
4. Stitch the center back seam of the BACK PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE to the left side, serge and topstitch.
5. Stitch the SLEEVE to the FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the SLEEVE, serge and topstitch.
6. Serge the bottom edge of the garment.
7. Mark the buttonhole opening on the right FACING with three lines: the first line is parallel to the edge and is 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines define the length of the buttonhole. Fuse one of the buttonhole LINING pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING and place it on the right side of the FACING, face down, moving from the edge, aligning the LINING's cut edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the buttonhole opening up to the lines defining its length. Place the second buttonhole LINING piece butt-to-butt with the stitching of the first LINING and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the accuracy of the LINING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the buttonhole. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the buttonhole opening. Turn the LINING through the opening to the wrong side, forming a welt equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing seam into the LINING attachment seam. Press the second LINING towards the inner edge of the FACING and stitch a securing seam 0.1 cm from the attachment seam. Mark and serge buttonholes on the FACING, catching the fused LINING. Straighten and secure the ends of the buttonhole from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the short edges of the LININGS. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack being equal to the width of the welt. Press the FACING.
8. Stitch the shoulder edges of the FACINGS and the back neckline FACING. Serge the inner edge. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, face down, and stitch the edge, neckline, and bottom. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the edge. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams and press. Topstitch along the left edge, neckline, and one-piece flap.
9. Press the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side and topstitch. On the right side of the right FRONT PANEL, topstitch according to the markings and continue it to the bottom.
10. Serge the buttonhole on the one-piece flap. Sew on buttons according to the markings.