Cropped Jacket with Peter Pan Collar
A cropped, boxy women's jacket with a rounded flat collar, a three-button front and wide flared three-quarter sleeves finished with cuff bands. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and early autumn over dresses, blouses and high-waisted trousers or skirts.
- As a light outer layer for the office or daytime events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight and boxy, with no darts or shaping seams.
Length: Cropped, ending around the waist.
Collar: Flat collar with rounded ends (upper and lower collar), set between the jacket and the facings and topstitched 1 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Wide three-quarter sleeves flaring towards the hem, set into the open armhole; sleeve and side seams are stitched in one. A cuff band is attached to the sleeve hem, turned to the inside and topstitched.
Front: Single-breasted with three buttons, buttonholes on the right front; separate front facings. The front edges are topstitched 1 cm from the edge, with a second line of topstitching on the fronts parallel to the front edge.
Back: One piece with no centre back seam.
Lining: Full lining, attached to the facings, the back neck facing, the cuffs and the jacket hem; the jacket is turned through an opening in the left sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar set between the jacket and the facings, a bagged full lining and parallel rows of topstitching on the fronts.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight coating.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, cuffs)
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Attention: front and back lining pieces are cut without the width of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, respectively. Sleeve lining pieces are cut without the cuff width.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar and Cuffs.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar, starting and ending the seam strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim the seam allowances, turn right side out, shape, and press the collar.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch from the bottom up to the notch that indicates the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seam allowances of the upper corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out and shape the seams.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seams open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Press the seams open. Insert the collar between the jacket and the facings. Attach the Lower Collar to the jacket neckline, and attach the Upper Collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Press open the seam allowances of the upper and lower collar attachment. Turn the facings to the wrong side and stitch the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
- Set the sleeve into the open armhole. Press the seam towards the sleeve. Stitch the sleeve seam and side seam in one continuous seam. Press the seams open.
- Stitch the Cuff into a loop. Press the seam open. Place the cuff and sleeve right sides together. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the cuff inside the sleeve and press.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an unstitched section in the left sleeve seam for turning. Place the lining and jacket right sides together and attach to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Stitch the bottom corner of the front edge. Trim the seam allowances of the bottom corners of the front edge. Attach the sleeve lining to the cuff.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve, shape the seams, and stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- Topstitch 1 cm from the edge along the front edge, collar, and bottom of the sleeve. Topstitch along the seam joining the sleeve lining and cuff. Topstitch on the Fronts along the marked line parallel to the front edge.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons.
