Trim-Embellished Cape Jacket
A short, boxy women's cape jacket with wide lapels, broad sleeve panels sewn to the edges of the back and fronts, and a buckled belt threaded through four bound slits at the waist. A wide decorative trim is topstitched along the lapels, front edges, hem and sleeve hems. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and early autumn over blouses, fine knitwear and dresses.
- Belted over slim trousers or straight skirts.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Wide and boxy, gathered in at the waist by the belt.
Collar: Wide lapels cut in one with the fronts and faced with interfaced front facings and a back neck facing.
Sleeves: Wide, straight cape-style sleeve panels attached to the back and front edges; seam allowances pressed towards the sleeve.
Front: Open front with no buttons, held by the belt.
Back: Centre back seam, clipped at the curve and pressed open.
Waist: Four slits finished like welt-pocket openings with interfaced 4 × 9 cm facings; a belt with a buckle and eyelets is threaded through them. A ready-made belt can be used instead.
Finishing: Wide trim topstitched along the lapel edge, front edge, hem and sleeve hems.
Lining: Full lining sewn to the facings, then stitched to the jacket in one pass along the front edges, neckline and hem, and turned through an opening in the right front sleeve seam of the lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A bagged lining sewn around the whole edge, welt-style slits cut through the finished jacket and trim applied evenly around corners.
Fabric Recommendations
Fine fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, slit facings)
- Wide decorative trim (approximate length is marked on the sleeve pattern piece)
- Belt buckle
- Eyelets for the belt
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 2 pieces
Attention: The front and back lining pieces are cut without considering the width of the front facings and back neck facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facings and back neck facing pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam of the back. Clip seam allowances at curves and press open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Clip seam allowances at curves and press open.
- Attach the sleeves to the back and front. Press seam allowances towards the sleeve.
- Stitch the center seam of the back neck facing. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neck facing. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the lining pieces together, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam for turning. Attach the lining to the front facings and neck facing. Place the front facings with lining on the main garment, right sides together, and stitch all around the front edge, neckline, and bottom edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim corners, turn the garment right side out, baste, and press. Close the technical opening.
- Cut four rectangles 4x9 cm from the main fabric. Fuse fusible interfacing to them and overlock the perimeter. Place them on the marking for the slits, right side to right side, and stitch along the marking. Cut the fabric between the stitching lines as you would for a welt pocket. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the short sides. Turn the facing through the opening to the wrong side, and straighten the edges. Topstitch along the edge of the resulting opening to secure.
- Topstitch the trim strip along the edge of the lapel, front edge, bottom edge of the garment, and bottom edge of the sleeve.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening in the top seam of the belt. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, and stitch the opening closed. Thread the belt through the buckle and secure. Punch eyelets. Tip: a ready-made belt can be used as the belt.
