Lined Jacket with Stand Collar and Front Opening
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, lined cape-jacket, characterized by its stand collar, a five-button front closure, a wide, rounded cape silhouette and two bound slits at the front waist for threading a belt.
When To Wear
This elegant cape-jacket offers versatile styling for a range of occasions, making it perfect for:
- Smart Casual Outings: Elevate everyday ensembles with its sophisticated silhouette.
- Professional & Business Wear: a stylish outer layer for the office or business meetings.
- Seasonal Layering: Provides warmth and style during transitional weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a contemporary short cape with a wide, rounded silhouette, falling to hip length.
Neckline: a neat stand collar frames the neck.
Closure: Center-front opening with five buttons and buttonholes, finished with front facings and edge topstitching.
Sleeves: No set-in sleeves: wide side panels (pattern pieces labelled Sleeve) are sewn to the front and back, creating the cape drape over the shoulders and arms.
Waist: Two bound slits at the front waist (made like welt openings) let a belt pass through to define the waist; the belt is not part of the pattern.
Hem: a rounded hem, finished together with the lining.
Lining: Fully lined for a smooth finish and added comfort.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires accurate stitching for the stand collar, careful bagging of the lining with the facings, and neat bound slits worked through all layers.
Fabric Recommendations
For the main garment, choose medium-weight fabrics with good drape and structure, such as:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
- Tweed
- Wool blends
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 5 buttons
- A narrow belt (optional, for threading through the slits)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Attention: The back and front pieces from the lining fabric are cut without the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing pieces, the Back Neckline Facing and the upper Stand Collar.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the Sleeve (side panel) pieces to the back and fronts. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press the seam allowances open. Sew the lining pieces together, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam for turning. Stitch the lining to the front facings and the back neckline facing. Place the facings with the lining on the cape, right sides together, insert the finished stand collar between them, and stitch all around the front edges, neckline and hem. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim corners, turn the cape right side out, baste, and press. Stitch the turning opening closed. Topstitch along the front edges and the stand collar.
- Cut two rectangles 4x9 cm from the main fabric. Fuse them with interfacing and overlock all around. Place them right side down onto the markings for the slits and stitch along the markings (the cape is already fully finished with lining and is stitched through all layers). Cut the fabric between the stitching lines as for a welt pocket. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the short sides. Turn the rectangle facing to the wrong side through the opening and straighten the edges. Topstitch around the edge of the opening to secure it.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
