Fitted Long Sleeve Knotted Front Blouse

Name: Fitted Long Sleeve Knotted Front Blouse
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5616
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5616

A women's fitted long-sleeved blouse with a shirt collar on a stand and an under-bust seam: above it, the two faced upper fronts tie in a knot at the centre; below it, the front closes with buttons on a cut-on placket. Sleeves are gathered into deep cuffs folded in half and buttoned through on both sides. The front opening makes it suitable for nursing; it is not drafted as a maternity blouse. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: linen and cotton fabrics with added synthetic fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Long Sleeve Knotted Front Blouse

When To Wear

Office and everyday wear with trousers, jeans or a pencil skirt.
Spring and autumn, on its own or under a jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by two darts on the back and a dart on each lower front.

Length: Hip length; hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Collar: Pointed shirt collar on a stand; upper collar and upper stand interfaced, the inner stand topstitched over the attaching seam.

Neckline: Open V formed by the upper fronts, which are faced with interfaced centre front facings.

Front: The upper fronts are joined to the lower fronts only up to a notch; their free ends tie in a knot at the centre. The lower fronts have an interfaced cut-on placket with buttonholes on the right and buttons on the left.

Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves eased into the armhole, with a vent topstitched 0.2 cm from the fold. The lower edge is gathered into a deep interfaced cuff that is folded in half, the ends aligned, and fastened with buttons sewn through all layers on both sides.

Back: One piece with two vertical darts.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A collar on a stand, faced front ends forming a knot, a cut-on button placket, sleeve vents, gathered cuffs and buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Linen and cotton fabrics with added synthetic fibres. The knot shows best in a plain fabric with a sheen or a shot (changeant) effect.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (centre front facings, cut-on placket, upper collar, upper stand, cuffs)
12 buttons

Cutting Plan

From main fabric:

Upper Front – 2 pieces
Lower Front – 2 pieces
Back – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Cuff – 2 pieces
Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Collar – 2 pieces
Stand Collar – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, upper Collar, upper Stand Collar, Cuff, and the all-in-one placket of the Lower Front

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, the upper Stand Collar, the upper Collar, and the Cuff.
Mark and stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center back. Mark and stitch the dart on each Lower Front. Press it towards the center front.
Fuse interfacing to the all-in-one placket of the Lower Front. Overlock the lower edge of the Upper Front slightly past the mark and the upper edge of the Lower Front. Overlock the center front edge of the Lower Front.
Stitch the Lower Front to the Upper Front up to the notch. Press the seams open.
Overlock the inner edge of the Center Front Facing. Stitch the facings to the front edges of the Upper Front, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the facings to the inside.
Fold the all-in-one placket of the Lower Front to the wrong side and stitch across its upper corner. Turn it right side out and press.
Stitch and overlock the side and shoulder seams. Press the side and shoulder seams towards the back.
Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the edges. Trim the corners and turn the collar right side out. Press. Stitch the Stand Collar pieces together, sandwiching the collar between them. Turn the stand right side out and press.
Stitch the lower stand (with the collar) to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the upper stand, and topstitch it over the attachment seam.
Overlock the sleeve edges. Stitch the sleeve seam up to the vent notch and press it open. Topstitch along the vent 0.2 cm from the fold. Run a line of loose (long) stitches along the lower edge of the sleeve and gather it (the gathered length is indicated on the pattern).
Fold each cuff right sides together and stitch the ends. Turn the cuff right side out, trimming the corners. Stitch the outer layer of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold under the raw edge of the inner layer and topstitch it over the attachment seam. Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap. Overlock the armhole seam.
Overlock the blouse hem, fold the allowance to the wrong side, and topstitch.
Mark and work buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front. Mark the button positions on the cuffs: fold the cuff in half, aligning the ends, and sew the buttons through both layers on both sides.