Fitted Blouse with Ruched Princess Seams

Name: Fitted Blouse with Ruched Princess Seams
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5615
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5615

A women's fitted long-sleeved blouse with princess seams front and back; on the front, both edges of each princess seam are gathered, so the seam runs as a line of ruching from the armhole to the hem. Pointed shirt collar, topstitched button placket and gathered sleeves with turn-back cuffs. The front opening makes it suitable for nursing; it is not drafted as a maternity blouse. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: linen and cotton fabrics with added synthetic fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Blouse with Ruched Panels

When To Wear

Office wear with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers.
Dinners and daytime events, on its own or under a jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Hip length; hem levelled, overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Collar: Pointed shirt collar without a stand, the upper collar interfaced; the under collar edge is topstitched over the neckline seam.

Front: Centre front and side front panels gathered along the princess seam to the length marked on the pattern, then joined with two lines of stitching.

Closure: Separate interfaced placket stitched to each front edge and topstitched; buttonholes on the right, buttons on the left. Six buttons on the front in the drawing.

Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a vent topstitched 0.1–0.2 cm from the edge. The lower edge is gathered into a two-layer interfaced cuff that closes with one button, the cuff corners turned up.

Back: Centre back and side back panels joined by princess seams, pressed towards the centre; no centre back seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Even gathering along curved princess seams, a topstitched placket, a collar attached without a stand, sleeve vents, cuffs and buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Linen and cotton fabrics with added synthetic fibres. The ruching shows best in a plain fabric with a sheen.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (plackets, cuffs, upper collar)
8 buttons

Cutting Plan

From main fabric:
Center Front – 2 pieces
Center Back – 1 piece
Side Front – 2 pieces
Side Back – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Cuff – 4 pieces
Topstitched Placket – 2 pieces
Collar – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: upper Collar, Topstitched Placket, Cuff.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Topstitched Placket, Cuff and upper Collar.
Place upper and under collars right sides together and stitch. Turn the collar right side out, trimming corners. Press the collar.
Along the princess seams of the center and side front pieces, stitch with loose basting stitches and gather (length indicated on the center front piece). Distribute gathers evenly along the entire length. Stitch the front princess seam with two lines of stitching. Remove gathering threads. Overlock the front princess seam.
Stitch and overlock the back princess seam. Press the seam allowance towards the center.
Stitch side and shoulder seams. Overlock seams and press towards the back.
Press one long edge of the Topstitched Placket to the wrong side. Align the other edge of the placket with the front edge and stitch. Stitch across the upper end of the placket. Clip the neckline allowance, then turn to the wrong side and press. Fold the pressed edge of the placket and topstitch in the ditch of the previous seam.
Attach the upper collar to the neckline. Fold the edge of the under collar and topstitch in the ditch of the upper collar attachment seam.
Overlock the sleeve seam edges. Along the bottom edge of the sleeve, stitch with loose basting stitches and gather to the length of the cuff (gathered sleeve length indicated on the sleeve pattern piece). Distribute gathers evenly along the entire length.
Place two Cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides. Turn the cuff right side out, trimming corners.
Stitch the sleeve seam up to the notch for the vent. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch the vents 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge. Attach the under cuff layer to the sleeve. Fold the free edge and topstitch in the ditch of the under cuff attachment seam. Set sleeves into armholes. Overlock the armhole seam.
Level and overlock the bottom edge of the blouse. Fold up the hem to the wrong side and topstitch.
On the right placket, mark and stitch buttonholes, and sew buttons onto the left placket. On the cuff, mark and stitch a buttonhole, sew on a button, and turn the cuff corners upwards.