Zip-Front Jacket with Tie Back
A hip-length women's lined jacket with a turn-down collar, a separating zip at the centre front, welt pockets set into the front princess seams and two-piece sleeves. Straps sewn into the back princess seams tie at the waist.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over shirts, blouses and thin knitwear.
- With trousers or straight skirts; the back ties take in the width at the waist when worn closed or open.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Turn-down collar with pointed ends, cut as an interfaced upper collar and an undercollar, set into the neckline together with the facings.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam, full length; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Closure: Full-length separating zip at the centre front, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; interfaced front facings.
Pockets: Welt pockets in the front princess seams: the interfaced welt is sewn to the centre front and its short sides are topstitched to the side front.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams. Two topstitched straps are caught into the princess seams and tie in a bow.
Lining: Full lining, including the sleeves, sewn to the facings and to the jacket and sleeve hems; the jacket is turned through an opening in the lining sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. In-seam welt pockets, a separating zip set between front and facing, a two-piece collar, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads, and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, welts)
- Separating zip (length marked on the front pattern piece)
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutting Plan
From main fabric:
- 1. Center back piece – 2 pieces
- 2. Side back piece – 2 pieces
- 3. Front piece – 2 pieces
- 4. Side front piece – 2 pieces
- 5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- 6. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 7. Upper sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- 8. Lower sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- 9. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 10. Undercollar – 1 piece
- 11. Welt – 2 pieces
- 12. Strap – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 1. Center back piece – 2 pieces
- 2. Side back piece – 2 pieces
- 3. Front piece – 2 pieces (minus the width of the front facing)
- 4. Side front piece – 2 pieces
- 5. Upper sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- 6. Lower sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- 7. Pocket lining – 4 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- front facing
- back neckline facing
- upper collar
- welt
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, and welt.
- Fold straps in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along two sides. Trim corners, turn straps right side out, and topstitch.
- Fold the welt piece in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the ends. Trim seam allowances at corners and turn right side out. Press the welt. Stitch pocket lining to the welt.
- Place pocket lining onto the right side of the side front piece, and the pocket lining with the attached welt onto the center front piece, aligning with notches, right side down. Stitch the pocket lining to the pocket opening seam allowance. Turn the lining towards the side piece and topstitch the seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch front princess seams up to the notch. Stitch the pocket lining. Press princess seam allowances towards the center, press the pocket lining. Overlock the pocket lining. Topstitch the short sides of the welt to the side front piece.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the back princess seams, inserting the straps from the mark downwards.
- Place front pieces right sides together and align edges, measuring the length of the front openings. Stitch zipper to the edge of the front opening. Fold under the edges of the front opening in the zipper area and press.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour. Trim collar corners, turn collar right side out. Press the collar.
- Place front facing onto the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the front piece side upwards. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the center front piece strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams, and press.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Set the collar into the neckline. Stitch the back and front neckline facing. Turn the facing to the wrong side, smooth the seams, and press.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Stitch lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Secure the neckline seam allowances of the facing and collar together.
- Stitch lining to the hem of the jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Topstitch along the zipper at a distance of 0.5 cm.
