Maternity Overalls with Side Lacing
Full-length women's overalls with a bib front, a centre front zip, adjustable lacing over side inserts, an elasticated back and two patch pockets on the back.
When To Wear
- As everyday trousers over a T-shirt, top or thin jumper.
- In spring and autumn in stretch denim, with a jacket or cardigan on top.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight legs, full length; the bib is joined to the front pieces with a horizontal seam.
Closure: Zip in the centre front seam, running through the bib, with a fused facing behind it; the front edges are topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Front: Bib lined with lining fabric and topstitched; two buttons at the top of the bib take the strap fasteners.
Straps: Folded and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, sewn into the upper back at an angle, with overall fasteners at the front ends.
Sides: A hemmed insert set into each side seam. Loops of cord, cut about 4 cm long, are stitched to the front and back pieces, and a cord laced through them sets the width.
Back: The upper back is lined; 3 cm elastic is stitched through under the lining, which is held at the seat seam with a bar tack. The seat seam is double-stitched.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the back with a 2 cm topstitched upper edge.
Legs: 3 cm hem, topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Zip with a facing through the bib, lined bib and upper back, elastic stitched through all layers, side inserts with cord loops.
Fabric Recommendations
Firm suiting or denim with added elastic fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (bib lining, upper back lining, zip facing)
- Fusible interfacing (zip facing)
- Zip
- Decorative cord (hat elastic can be used instead)
- 2 buttons
- 2 overall fasteners
- Elastic, 3 cm wide
Cutting Plan
From main fabric:
- 1. Back piece – 2 pieces
- 2. Front piece – 2 pieces
- 3. Bib – 2 pieces
- 4. Back pocket – 2 pieces
- 5. Strap – 2 pieces
- 6. Insert – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 7. Bib lining – 1 piece
- 8. Upper back piece lining – 2 pieces
- 9. Placket facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
From fusible interfacing: placket facing.
- Fuse interfacing to the placket facing.
- Serge the back pocket along the contour. Fold the upper edge and topstitch. Press the lower and side edges of the pocket to the wrong side. Mark the pocket placement on the back piece. Position the pocket according to the marks and topstitch it.
- Serge the upper edge of the insert. Fold the seam allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Serge the inseam and side edges of the trousers. Stitch the inseam and side seams. Press seams open.
- Cut the cord into pieces approximately 4 cm long. Fold in half and topstitch onto the front and back pieces according to the marks.
- Stitch the insert into the side seam of the trousers (leaving the upper seam allowance of the front piece free). Serge the seam along the contour of the insert, reaching just above the mark for attaching the insert to the back piece.
- Stitch and serge: the front edge up to the zipper mark and the extended seat seam. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the stitching of the front and crotch seam.
- Stitch the bib to the front piece, folding the insert away so it doesn't get caught in the seam.
- Serge the lower edge of the bib lining. Serge the outer and lower edges of the placket facing. Stitch the placket facing to the lower edge of the bib lining. Stitch the upper and side edges of the front piece with the bib lining. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press.
- Fold the front pieces right sides together and align the edges, measuring the length. Stitch the zipper to the edge. Fold the edges in the zipper area and press.
- Place the front piece lining and facing onto the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the top. Turn the edges right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch along the edge at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Fold the straps lengthwise in half and stitch along two straight sides, trim corners, and turn right side out. Press the straps and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Serge the lower edge of the upper back piece lining. Fold the back piece lining and back piece right sides together and stitch along the upper and side edges, inserting the straps with their angled sides. Trim corners, turn right side out, press.
- Topstitch along the bib and the upper back piece.
- Measure the elastic. Place the elastic under the back piece lining, secure, and topstitch through all layers, stretching the elastic. Secure the lining at the level of the seat seam with a bar tack.
- Serge the hem of the trousers. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Sew buttons onto the upper of the bib. Attach fasteners to the straps. Insert the cord into the loops and tighten to the desired size.
