Layered-Collar Jacket
A hip-length, fitted women's jacket with a shawl-style collar built from three layers, the two upper ones edged with bias binding. The fronts carry layered centre panels with rounded lower ends, a back flounce forms a band along the lower back, and flap patch pockets sit on the fronts. Two-button closure; fully lined.
When To Wear
- Over a plain top or a fine knit, with a straight skirt or trousers.
- In spring and autumn as a lined jacket for daytime events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Three collar layers set into the neckline together; the outer edges of the two upper collars and of the centre front panels are bound with bias binding pressed in half.
Front: Fronts with darts and centre panels cut in three layers per side.
Closure: Two buttons; the buttonholes are worked through both lower right front layers.
Pockets: Patch pockets with a topstitched upper edge and a flap above, turned down and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Back: Centre back seam and darts. A back flounce cut in three pieces is joined to the lower edge of the back and to the front centre panels, and is finished with its own facing.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, full length.
Lining: Full lining attached to the facings, the back flounce facing and the sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A multi-layer collar, bias-bound edges, a faced back flounce joined to the fronts and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Double-faced fabrics of natural or blended fibres: the layered collar and front panels show both sides of the cloth.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (back neck facing, under collar, front facings)
- Bias binding
- 2 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Back Flounce – 3 pieces
- Back Flounce Facing – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 4 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front – 6 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Back Neckline Facing, one Collar piece (under collar), Center Front Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Back Neckline Facing, the under collar and the Center Front Facings.
- Mark the darts on the Back and Front. Stitch the darts, trim away the excess fabric inside the darts and press them open.
- Place two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Press the flap and overlock its open edge.
- Mark the pocket placement on the Front. Overlock the edges of the Pocket. Press the upper edge of the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. Fold the overlocked seam allowances of the pocket to the wrong side and press. Topstitch the pocket to the Front along the marking. Mark the flap placement. Place the flap on the marking and stitch it on. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stack the three Center Front pieces of each side, align the edges and stitch them to the Front, stopping 1.5 cm from the side edges.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open. Stitch the side seams of the jacket and press them open. Stitch the shoulder seams, stopping 1.5 cm from the neckline.
- Stitch the Back Flounces to the Center Front pieces. Press the seams open and overlock them. Align the upper edges of the flounces and stitch them to the lower edge of the Back.
- Stitch the collars to the Center Front pieces up to the shoulder seam; overlock the seam and press it open. Note that the under collar is placed on the Center Front piece right sides together, while the two upper collars are placed right side to wrong side. Press the seams of the under collar open; press the seams of the two upper collars to one side and overlock them.
- Stitch the shoulder seams to the end. Align the neckline edges of the collars, clip the back neckline near the shoulder seams and stitch all three collars into the back neckline.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the remaining Collar piece into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam open. Stitch the side edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Flounce Facing together and press the seams open.
- Press the bias binding in half lengthwise and bind the outer edges of the two upper collars and of the Center Front pieces.
- Place the Center Front Facings and Back Flounce Facing on the jacket, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, the outer edge of the collar and the lower edge of the back flounce. Trim the seam allowances at the lower front corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: along the buttoning edge, to the facing; along the collar, to the front. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the Back Flounce Facing and to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Place the two lower layers of the right front together and work the buttonholes through both; sew the buttons on the left front.
