Shaped V-Neck Zip-Front Jacket
A fitted women's jacket at upper-hip length with a stand collar, a front that opens into a V above the bust, a separating zip from the bust to the hem, and a curved front yoke above princess-seamed panels. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In wool for autumn and winter, with trousers or a straight skirt.
- Zipped up as a top on its own, or open over a fine knit.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: To the upper hip, straight hem.
Collar: Stand collar; below it the front edges part in a V down to the bust.
Closure: Separating zip set into the front edges from the bust to the hem; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Front: A curved yoke runs across the bust from armhole to centre front; below it centre and side front panels are joined by princess seams.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams from the armhole.
Finishing: Shoulder pads and sleeve heads; all seams pressed open.
Lining: Full lining cut from the yoke, front panels, back panels and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Setting a separating zip between the front and the facing with matching front lengths, joining a curved yoke, attaching a stand collar and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre front panels, back neck facing, upper collar)
- Separating zip
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, one Collar piece (upper collar), Center Front.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, upper Collar piece and Center Fronts.
- Stitch the Center Front to the Side Front. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the assembled front panels. Press the seam open.
- Place the two Collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Stitch the princess seams on the back (Center Back to Side Back) and press them open. Stitch the centre back seam and press it open.
- Place the fronts right sides together and match the edges, checking that both front edges are the same length. Stitch the separating zip to the front edges. Fold under the front edges along the zip section and press.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, with the front on top. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the lower corners. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams. Topstitch along the front edges 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the under collar layer to the jacket neckline and the upper (interfaced) collar layer to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
