Jacket with Gathered Sleeve-Cap Overlays

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. FACING – 2 QTY
• 4. Undercollar – 1 QTY
• 5. Upper Collar – 1 QTY
• 6. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• 7. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• 8. SLEEVE Cap – 2 QTY
• 9. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 10. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 11. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. BACK SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. FRONT SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• 4. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• 5. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 6. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, back neckline FACING, upper COLLAR, center FRONT PANEL.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, back neckline FACING, upper COLLAR, center FRONT PANEL, and armhole edges of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
2. Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center. Stitch FRONT PANEL darts, trim dart depth, and press open.
3. Place upper COLLAR and undercollar right sides together and stitch. Trim seams, turn, and press the COLLAR.
4. Mark and sew buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL, and sew hooks on the left FRONT PANEL. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which indicates the end of the COLLAR attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the FACING to the FRONT PANEL precisely along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the edge: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL edge. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges to the right side and press the seams.
5. Stitch and press open the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and FACING. Attach the undercollar to the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR to the neckline edge of the back FACING and FACING.
7. Along the upper and lower edges of the SLEEVE cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches 0.5 cm from the edge and gather.
8. Attach the SLEEVE cap to the upper SLEEVE part. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
9. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
11. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FACING and back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
12. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.