Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL side part – QTY 2
2. FRONT PANEL side part – QTY 2
3. Under FACING – QTY 2
4. COLLAR – QTY 2
5. BACK PANEL central part – QTY 2
6. FRONT PANEL central part right – QTY 1
7. FRONT PANEL central part left – QTY 1
8. Upper pocket FACING – QTY 2
9. Large upper pocket LINING – QTY 1
10. SLEEVE – QTY 2
11. CUFF – QTY 2
12. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – QTY 1
13. Large pocket LINING – QTY 2
14. Pocket FACING – QTY 4
15. Placket – QTY 1
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL side part – QTY 2
2. FRONT PANEL side part – QTY 2
3. BACK PANEL central part – QTY 2
4. FRONT PANEL central part – QTY 2
5. SLEEVE – QTY 2
6. Small upper pocket LINING – QTY 1
7. Small pocket LINING – QTY 2
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: under FACING, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, upper COLLAR, GRAIN LINE strip, FRONT PANEL central part.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the under FACING, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, upper COLLAR, and central FRONT PANEL.
2. Mark the placket placement on the left FRONT PANEL. Press the placket side edges and topstitch onto the left FRONT PANEL according to the markings.
3. Mark the darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press the darts on the BACK PANEL towards the center.
4. Place the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR, right sides together, and stitch. Trim and press the COLLAR.
5. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL.
6. Mark the placement of the lower and upper pockets. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE strip. Fold the pocket FACINGS in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket FACING parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark guidelines on the FRONT PANEL parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the pocket FACINGS. Attach the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the FACINGS to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, and adjust the ends of the FACINGS so that the pressed folds of the FACINGS meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the ZIPPER. Attach the large pocket LINING to the upper pocket FACING. Attach the small pocket LINING into the seam of the lower FACING attachment, trim and stitch the pocket LINING. The upper and lower pockets are processed similarly.
7. Cut a 3 cm wide strip for buttonholes from the main fabric. Fold the strip lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold, finishing one end. Turn the strip right side out and press. Cut buttonholes from the strip and fold them. Baste the buttonholes according to the markings to the right FRONT PANEL.
8. Place the under FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, face down, pin and stitch along the edge. Stitch the lower edges of the under FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower edge corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the edge FACING onto the under FACING in the fastening area (stopping 3 cm from the neckline edge and lower corner). The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
9. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
10. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the BACK PANEL neckline FACING and under FACING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the BACK PANEL FACING and under FACING.
11. Press the CUFF in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Unfold the CUFF and stitch the side edge of the CUFF. Press open the CUFF side seam. Fold the CUFF in half lengthwise and press. Stitch and press open the SLEEVE seam. Attach the CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE.
12. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads.
13. On the cut LINING pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the SLEEVE seam.
14. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the under FACINGS and BACK PANEL neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
15. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
16. Sew buttons onto the left FRONT PANEL.
17. Tip: - For sloped shoulders, use raglan shoulder pads. - The length of one buttonhole is equal to two button diameters plus 4 cm. - Add 2-3 cm to the placket length in case of shrinkage. After attaching the placket to the FRONT PANEL, trim the placket.