Military Style Stand Collar Jacket
A short, fitted women's jacket with a stand collar and an off-centre front closure: five buttons on a topstitched placket on the left front, fastened with fabric loops from the right front. It has princess seams, three zipped welt pockets, one-piece sleeves with deep cuffs and a full lining.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over fine knitwear or shirts, with trousers, jeans or a straight skirt.
- As a short jacket over dresses and high-waisted trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back and by back darts.
Length: Short, ending just below the waist.
Collar: Stand collar in two layers; the under collar is set into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with deep cuffs, cut as bands folded in half lengthwise.
Closure: Off-centre: the right and left centre fronts are cut as separate pieces. Five buttons are sewn on a placket topstitched onto the left front; five fabric loops, made from a 3 cm wide strip of the main fabric, are caught into the right front edge seam.
Pockets: Two slanted welt pockets at the lower front and one slanted welt pocket on the right chest, each with two folded lips meeting edge to edge over a zip, and a pocket bag of main and lining fabric.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.
Finishing: Front edge understitched onto the facing 0.2 cm from the seam along the closure; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining cut on the same panel lines, attached to the facings and hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Three zipped welt pockets, fabric button loops, an off-centre closure with a placket, a stand collar set between the jacket and the facings, and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, centre fronts)
- Fusible stay tape for the pocket openings
- 5 buttons
- 3 zips for the pockets
- Shoulder pads (raglan shoulder pads for a sloped shoulder line)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Right Front – 1 piece
- Center Left Front – 1 piece
- Upper Pocket Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Big Lining – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Bigger Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- Pocket Facing – 4 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Button loops – 1 strip, 3 cm wide (cut by measurement)
- From lining fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Right Front – 1 piece
- Center Left Front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Small Lining – 1 piece
- Smaller Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, upper Collar, Center Right Front and Center Left Front; fusible stay tape for the pocket openings.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, upper Collar and Center Right/Left Front.
- Mark the Placket position on the left front. Press under the long edges of the Placket and topstitch it onto the left front along the markings.
- Mark the darts on the back. Stitch and press the darts on the back towards the center.
- Place the upper and under Collar right sides together and stitch. Turn, shape and press the collar.
- Stitch the Center Right Front and Center Left Front to the Side Fronts (princess seams) and press the seams open.
- Mark the placement of the lower and upper pockets. Reinforce the pocket opening with fusible stay tape. Fold the pocket facings in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark guidelines on the front parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the pocket facings. Attach the facings to the front. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, and adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the zipper. Stitch the big pocket lining to the upper pocket facing. Stitch the small pocket lining into the attachment seam of the lower facing, trim and stitch the pocket bag. The upper and lower pockets are made in the same way (Upper Pocket Facing, Upper Pocket Big Lining and Upper Pocket Small Lining for the chest pocket; Pocket Facing, Bigger Pocket Lining and Smaller Pocket Lining for the lower pockets).
- Cut a 3 cm wide strip from the main fabric for the button loops. Fold the strip lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold, closing one end. Turn the strip right side out and press. Cut the strip into loops and fold each loop in half. Baste the loops to the right front at the markings.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowance onto the facing along the closure area, 0.2 cm from the seam (stopping 3 cm from the neckline and the lower corner). Turn the front edges right side out and press the seams.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Stitch the under collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the facings.
- Press the cuff in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Unfold the cuff and stitch its short ends together. Press open the cuff side seam. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Stitch and press open the sleeve seam. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve.
- Insert the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- On the cut lining pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening in the sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Sew buttons onto the left front.
- Tip: - For sloped shoulders, use raglan shoulder pads. - The length of one loop strip equals two button diameters plus 4 cm. - Add 2-3 cm to the placket length to allow for easing; after stitching the placket to the front, trim it to size.
